Category Archives: Activities

Keep Rollin’

by Eli Fournier

Drive around town these days, and you’ll notice mountain bikes hanging off vehicles left and right. Who are these people and where are they going, you ask? Well, turns out these folks are part of a flourishing and growing mountain-bike scene here in Bozeman—one well worth partaking in. Mountain biking can be expensive to get into (as with any outdoor sport), but once you have the basic gear, the options are endless. Here’s a rundown on local singletrack.

Where to Go
For a newbie, there are miles of trails in and around town that make for easy between-class or after-work excursions. For a classic ride, hop on the Gallagator to Peets Hill. Once atop, take a connector trail east to Highland Glen, and then turn south on the Painted Hills singletrack toward the Gallatin Range. The trail rolls and flows for a couple miles, eventually tying in with Triple Tree—an easy lollipop loop best ridden counterclockwise. Be careful coming down on the stem of the loop, as there are a few blind corners and lots of uphill traffic from both hikers and other bikers. Head back the way you came, or on Sourdough Road.

Another short, popular ride near town is Leverich Canyon, a small drainage tucked into the foothills between Hyalite and Bozeman Creek. For an extra workout, ride South 3rd from town to the trailhead. If you drive, know that parking is limited, and the access road is surrounded by private land, so there’s no overflow parking if the lot’s full. It only holds about two dozen cars. The Leverich Loop is designed to be ridden clockwise, and the downhill is built out with some flowy jumps and turns.

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide.

For something a little more challenging, but still well within the wheelhouse of an afternoon ride, look to Chestnut Mountain. To get there, hop on I-90 eastbound and take the Trail Creek exit about ten miles from town. Cross the train tracks, and park on the side of the road at the base of the mountain. Chestnut can be ridden as an out-and-back up the mountain, but the uphill is brutally steep. More popular is a loop up Trail Creek Road to the Goose Creek Trailhead, then around the backside of the mountain and down the front. It’s a challenging, 15-mile ride with several thousand feet of elevation gain and drop, but the views from up top are epic—not to mention you get a ripping downhill for the last 30 minutes of the ride. (Note: this trail is popular with hikers, runners, and dog-walkers, so be sure to slow down at blind corners and in general just be aware, mindful, and courteous.)

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide. Park on the side of Stone Creek Road, right off Bridger Canyon. Park in a convenient and respectful spot—the landowner bordering the road filed a lawsuit against the Forest Service to cut off public access here, so try not to make things any worse than they already are. The trail begins by climbing for a couple hours on a series of switchbacks up and around Stone Creek, then flattens out as it hits the divide. The trail then turns north, running the ridge all the way to Brackett Creek. Ride the highway back for about a 25-mile loop in total, or hitchhike a ride.

Also on the east side of the Bridgers is Crosscut Mountain Sports Center, which maintains a number of mountain-bike trails in the foothills. Crosscut hosts clinics throughout the summer to hone skills like downhill riding and cornering. Practice on their mellow terrain, then take your newfound abilities to more technical mountain trails.

Once you’ve got a handle on the basics, it might be time for some downhill dirt. A number of ski areas in the region offer downhill, lift-accessed bike trails in the summer—including DiscoveryBig Sky, and Grand Targhee. The three offer very different experiences, from the commercial feel of Big Sky to the mom-and-pop vibe at Targhee, and the small-town Montana aura of Disco. What doesn’t change, however, is the risk of downhill riding. It’s dangerous—no two ways about it. Consider a full-face helmet, knee & elbow pads, and even chest pads if you’re serious about sending big lines. Check your bike thoroughly beforehand, too. Ensure your wheel hubs are tight, brakes are bled, pads are fresh, and shocks are lubed. Downhill riding can be an exhilarating, scary, skill-building experience.

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Essential Gear
Mountain biking ain’t a cheap sport. First, there’s the initial investment in a bike. If you’re just getting into it, look at hardtails, which only have front suspension. They’re great to learn and hone your skills on, but if you stick with it, you’ll almost certainly want to upgrade to a full-suspension bike at some point. These more-expensive options typically have beefier suspension in the front fork, and an additional shock built into the frame to absorb hits to the back wheel. They’re a much smoother ride, and are capable of things that you really can’t do—or at least do well—on a hardtail.

In addition to a bike, you’ll need shoes, which come in the “flat” and “clipless” varieties. Flats are normal shoes, and a lot of people just ride in Vans or street shoes with flat soles. Flats allow you to bail off the bike quickly, if need be. They’re great to learn on, and lots of expert riders swear by flats. On the other hand, clipless pedals (which is a bit of a misnomer), secure your feet to the pedals with a mechanical mechanism, and give you power on up- and down-strokes. They’re preferred by lots of endurance riders and racers, but are certainly a bit challenging to learn on. You’ll fall over a handful of times before figuring out how to quickly release your shoes from the pedals.

You’ll also need a brain bucket. Remember, helmets are one-and-done, meaning if you take a big hit, you need to throw it away and buy a new one to fully protect your noggin. Don’t cut corners here—it’s not worth the risk. Also useful, but not necessary, is a hydration pack. Hip packs are the most comfortable to ride with as they put the weight on your lower back instead of your shoulders; but backpacks are fine, too. Finally, bring along a patch kit, packable pump, and spare innertube.

Etiquette
Let’s keep this short and simple. According to the rules, downhill bike traffic yields to uphill traffic, and bikes yield to both pedestrians and horses. However, if you ask politely or give a friendly “on your left,” most hikers will clear the trail for you. It’s often easier for them to step off to the side than for a biker to drag his bike off the trail. Be friendly to other riders, and offer assistance if you come across a rider with a flat tire or mechanical problem. It’ll come back around when you inevitably need help at some point down the trail.

Get the Skinny

Getting outside and staying fit during the warmer months is a breeze around here, but doing so in the winter is more challenging. The short days and long nights don’t make it any easier. Fortunately, Bozeman is a Nordic skier’s haven. On any given day, you’re apt to see Olympians, child prodigies, weekend warriors, and avid recreational aficionados all on the same trails. And with bountiful options both in town or just a few minutes’ drive away, getting out for a quick jaunt is easy

Classic vs. Skate
Nordic skiing can broadly be broken down into two general styles: classic and skate. The two differ in several key ways. Classic skiing is more beginner-friendly, and is done with a walk-kick technique similar to running, while skating is more of a moving duck-walk.

The skis used for each technique differ as well. Classic skis have distinct “kick” and “glide” zones on the bottoms that are waxed differently. As a lower-maintenance alternative to wax, a “fish scale” pattern on the kick section can provide traction and prevent backwards slippage.

The base of a skate ski, on the other hand, is consistent across the entire ski: coated entirely with temperature-specific glide wax that makes the entire thing slippery. Good luck “walking” with skate skis—you won’t make it far. Instead, a “skating” pattern (similar to ice skating) propels you forward.

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Where to Go
Classic skiers can use both groomed and ungroomed trails, while skate skiers are limited to the former. We’ll touch on groomed trails first.

Right in town are the Sunset Hills and Highland Glen trail systems. Thanks to snowmaking and grooming operations by the Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF), these two tracks are among the first to come into shape, usually in early December. Hit them in the morning, or practice your agility on skis by navigating around gaggles of kids at afternoon ski lessons. Also in town is the Bridger Creek Golf Course. Park at the clubhouse and warm up on the flat lower loops before doing a few intervals on the upper, hillier section.

A 20-minute drive from downtown is the Sourdough Trail. This track is also groomed by BSF, but is open to shared use. Realistically, most hikers, snowshoers, and runners only make it up to “the bridge,” around mile four. Beyond that, the track is in much better shape, and continues another five miles to Mystic Lake, or over Moser Pass to the Moser trailhead up Hyalite Canyon.

Speaking of Hyalite, there are several groomed trails stemming from the main parking lot at Hyalite Reservoir. These trails snake around the lake and surrounding forests, and are groomed intermittently at best—usually just a few times per season—making them a better option for classic skiers.

For classic and skate skiers alike, Crosscut Mountain Sports Center is far and away the best locale for Bozeman-area Nordic nuts. The grooming is immaculate, with all trails being hit by the snowcat pretty much every day. Check their detailed forecast for hour-by-hour weather and snow reports.

A little farther away, and more suited for a weekend trip, are the Rendezvous Trails in West Yellowstone. These tracks are a few thousand feet higher in elevation than those around Bozeman, and are the first to load in with snow every winter. In a typical year, college Nordic teams from across the country descend on West Yellowstone over Thanksgiving for an early-winter training trip. For serious skiers looking to test their skills (and endurance), there are a couple of annual races on these trails.

For classic skiers looking to get off the beaten the old logging roads and backcountry singletrack at Brackett CreekGoose Creek, and Bear Canyon are good options for more solitary excursions.

Etiquette
The single largest Nordic-skiing faux pas is damaging a ski track—be that snowshoeing on a singletrack or walking on a groomed trail (with the exception of Sourdough—and even then, it’s important to minimize the damage by sticking to the side of the trail). Nordic skiing on a lumpy track is no fun at all.

Additionally, don’t be a snob. Nordic skiing ain’t a cheap sport, and especially in the competitive world, it can be a touch elitist. Do your part to counter that by being friendly at the trailhead and on the trails. If someone asks you a question about wax or conditions, share what you know in a non-condescending way to encourage more participation in the sport. And on Sourdough, be nice—a friendly request to keep the dog out of the track is way better than a nasty comment as you ski past. Honey catches more flies than vinegar.

Events
Whether learning to Nordic ski or already a pro, Bozeman is the place to be a social skinny-skier.

November-March
Clinics – Bozeman. BSF offers Nordic ski clinics throughout the winter, providing an easy way to drop in and learn a few ski tips. bridgerskifoundation.org

December-February
FUNSKI Community Series – Various locations. BSF hosts one race per month during the winter, usually on weeknights. Themes range from a Santa chase to a lively two-person relay. Costumes encouraged. bridgerskifoundation.org

 January-March
Biathlon Races – Crosscut. Our backyard Nordic center hosts a series of fun community biathlon races throughout the winter. crosscutmt.org 

January

Hyalite Tour – Hyalite. This isn’t a race, just a great day to go ski the trails in Hyalite with friends and finish with free food & hot cocoa. Pick your distance and trail. hyalite.org

 March
Yellowstone Rendezvous – West Yellowstone. A good portion of Bozeman heads to West Yellowstone each March for the final races of the season with a 2k, 5k, 10k, 25k, and 50k. skirunbikemt.com

Editor’s note: Dates are subject to change. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.

Lines on the Water

by Eli Fournier

Fly-fishing in Southwest Montana.

Welcome to the fly-fishing capital of Montana, if the not entire West. If you come in search of piscine pursuits, look no further. Indeed, the fishing here lives up to its reputation, and come August, the town dress code might as well be quick-dry shorts, a sun hoody, sandals, sunglasses (with Croakies), and a lucky fishing hat. But aside from looking the part, knowing a few basics is also important. Here’s a rundown on a few of the most popular local waters. For more, pick up a copy of the Cast fishing guide, available for free at most fly shops and outdoor stores around town.

Where to Go
Madison River
From the “50-mile riffle” on its upper section, to Bear Trap Canyon and the flat meanders of its lower section, the Madison has plenty of options. A driftboat or raft is the best way to access the upper, but wading is equally effective on the lower. The flows are dam-controlled, but the water can still blow out from high-flow feeder streams. Early summer is caddis; mid-summer, salmonflies; and late-summer, mayflies and terrestrials.

Gallatin River
Perhaps the most famous trout river in the West, thanks to A River Runs Through It, the Gally is worthy of the hype. The river begins as a trickle in Yellowstone National Park and ends at its confluence with the Jefferson and the Madison at Missouri Headwaters State Park. Excellent fishing is to be had throughout, although “the Canyon” is the most-heavily pressured thanks to its fish-laden pockets, cool water temps, and easy access. The river is best fished wading from the banks—in fact, it’s illegal to fish from a boat on the upper section down to the confluence with the East Gallatin River, at Manhattan. If you’re just after a few casts in the evening, the Gallatin is tough to beat.

Yellowstone River
The Yellowstone originates south of the Park in some of the most remote country in the Lower 48. When folks around town refer to fishing on the ’Stone, however, they’re typically referencing the Paradise Valley section, from Gardiner to Livingston, and even further downstream to Big Timber. The fishing is dictated by flows. Springtime pre-runoff can be good, but the real goods are had once runoff subsides in late June. The Yellowstone is primo streamer water early-season, and dry-dropper territory later in the summer. It’s a big river, and wading can be difficult—but it’s not impossible. The best way to fish the Yellowstone is from a raft, stopping at good runs to wade.

Lakes
Both alpine lakes and lowland reservoirs can be productive at the right time of year. Just after ice-off in May, trout tend to cruise the shorelines of Ennis, Quake, Hebgen, and Henry’s lakes looking for easy meals. All these stillwaters can be effectively fished from shore in early spring before the fish move out to deeper waters. Once things warm up, the high-mountain lakes really turn on. But with so many possibilities in the Gallatin, Absaroka, and Madison ranges, narrowing down the options is challenging. Fortunately, there are a couple of good guidebooks, with one of the best being Flyfisher’s Guide to Southwest Montana’s Mountain Lakes. If you’re heading anywhere in the high country, bring a rod along—there are fish in just about every lake, pond, and creek in this corner of the state.

 

Catch & Release vs. Keep & Eat
On heavily-pressured rivers—all the ones mentioned above—catch-and-release is highly encouraged. While it’s legal to keep fish on some of these rivers, if every angler kept a daily bag limit, there would be no fish left. It’s acceptable to bonk a fish for dinner every now and then, especially if it’s unlikely to survive upon release; just try not to make a habit of it. A few standard catch-and-release practices: play fish quickly, keep them in the water, limit handling to a bare minimum, and use barbless hooks.

Bonking fish in reservoirs or at high mountain lakes is less frowned upon. In fact, a lot of folks on big alpine backpacking trips don’t bring much in the way of dinner food, instead relying on trout to fill their stomachs. Bring a packet of Idahoan mashed potatoes, some salmon-rub, and tortillas for gourmet trout burritos.

Etiquette
Fishing etiquette is pretty simple: don’t be a dick on the river. Chat with other anglers, give folks space, share your knowledge with those less experienced, and if floating, don’t dilly-dally and cause a traffic jam at the boat ramp. With some basic courtesy, you shouldn’t run into any issues on the water.

Under the Stars

by Jack Taylor

A guide to camping around the Bozone.

A camping or backpacking trip is one of the easiest, and quite possibly the best, ways to immerse yourself in the outdoors. Spending a night (or multiple nights) in the woods will calm your nerves, humble your mind, and invigorate your soul. When a trip is well executed, you’ll be rewarded with a sense of achievement and satisfaction. If things go awry, you’ll build resilience, learn from your mistakes, and certainly get a good story out of it. Most trips are a mixed bag of solid accomplishment and unplanned adventure. Here are some tips to help with logistics, so that you’ll have greater capacity for exploration. After all, you’d rather come home with a boastful tale about getting lost in the dark and navigating by starlight, than a dejected account of bringing the wrong type of stove gas and eating all your meals cold-soaked.

Where to Go
Our favorite place to go camping is… wait, did you really think we were going to tell you? Part of the fun in planning a trip is figuring out where to go! There’s nothing so satisfying as the process of discovery. That said, here are some general guidelines as you’re poring over the maps.

U.S. Forest Service land is perhaps the most popular option for overnight outings around here. From established campgrounds equipped with amenities, to vast swaths of unmarred wilderness, you’ll find the full gamut of camping and backpacking opportunities. Most of our nearby mountain ranges are almost entirely designated as National Forest (read: public) land.

State Parks and Fishing Access Sites (FASs) offer state-managed campgrounds, usually adjacent to water bodies or historical sites. Using these lands requires the purchase of an $8 annual Montana Conservation License, which can easily be obtained at fwp.mt.gov. The fee goes directly toward maintaining the sites.

Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is more sparse around Bozeman, but it offers camping opportunities near some popular recreation sites. The campsites are generally primitive, with no amenities—save perhaps a fire ring. So plan ahead, and have a means of disposing your waste.

On that note, regardless of where you go, practice leaving no trace. Look up the “Leave-No-Trace Principles,” or just follow this rule: leave it better than you found it. That means no trash, a clean firepit, and in general just an attractive campsite for the next person who comes along.

Group Size
The ideal number of people for a camping or backpacking trip will depend on your objective. But whether it’s a solo peak-bagging mission or a river trip with a crowd of two dozen, group size is an important consideration in planning.

When solo, you can make all the decisions yourself with no external conflict. You’ll be less distracted, and will probably feel more immersed in the environment. But solo outings are riskier, as you’re self-reliant. Plus, in a group, you can work as a team and socialize. Conflict is almost inevitable, but working through it is a good skill to practice.

In the backcountry, where we go to experience pristine nature, groups of more than five people can have a significant impact on other travelers. If you’re in a large party, consider splitting into smaller teams while on the trail. You can reconvene at camp, but be especially mindful of encroaching on others’ space.

Food
Meal-planning is one of the biggest challenges of a camping trip. Our best advice is to learn from experience. If you’re happy eating freeze-dried meals, great. If you’re culinarily inclined, camp-cooking can be an excellent outlet for creativity. Don’t be afraid to bring some perishable items for the start of your trip—especially if you’re camping near a car or boat with a cooler. Unrefrigerated meat should be fine for a day; veggies up to a few days. Canned food is heavy, but increases your options. Dehydrating your own food will save weight, and is less expensive than purchasing freeze-dried meals. Pre-made PB&Js are great for a quick lunch.

Cooking
There are two ways to cook while camping: on a stove or over a fire. A stove is easier and more reliable (e.g., it works in the rain), so it’s probably your safest bet. The two most popular types run on butane canisters or white gas. Butane stoves are simple and compact, but can struggle in cold temps or at high elevations. White-gas stoves are more complicated, but they’re versatile and reliable once you learn the maintenance procedures.

But there’s a primal satisfaction in cooking over fire—and an art to doing it right. If you choose this route, be sure to abide by fire restrictions. Don’t burn the forest down, and don’t leave a mess of a firepit—especially if there wasn’t one already established.

Bears
Grizzlies are a real concern when camping in southwest Montana. Hang your food, and cook at least 200 feet away from where you sleep. Bring nothing but water into your tent—even a tube of toothpaste can tip off a grizzly that there’s something tasty nearby.

 

Big Sky Boatin’

by Corey Hockett

Paddling in Southwestern Montana.

Montana’s boating scene often gets shrugged off like a younger brother. Pitted against other western states, its reputation falls short of Idaho’s coveted multi-day trips and the Northwest’s epic whitewater. This may be why river life in the Treasure State is overlooked and underrated. Regardless, it’s all good, because in Bozeman, you’re teed up for just about all you can ask for—and usually without the out-of-state crowds joining you.

Gallatin
A mere 20 minutes from town, the Gally is our closest gem. A low- to medium-volume river, typical flows range from 300-1,000cfs at the gauge at Gallatin Gateway, with peak runoff landing somewhere between 5,000 and 6,000. In June 2022, spring rains and a melting snowpack cultivated a raging torrent over 8,600cfs, the highest ever recorded since the gauge was installed in 1994.

As a shallower river, the rapids on the Gallatin vary in shape and size and are more technical in nature. Rafters are tested with regular rock-dodging, while smaller crafts can pick from a selection of routes ranging from small drops to demanding boofs for kayakers. Most of the whitewater lies between Deer Creek and Lower Storm Castle. Intermediate paddlers should stick to sections above Lava Lake. Below this access is the formidable Mad Mile. At flows above 3,000cfs, this is a continuous Class IV run. If this doesn’t sound like you, and lounging on the raft with a beer and your dog is more up your alley, check out the river between Manhattan and Missouri Headwaters State Park. Appropriate options include canoeing, rowing a driftboat, and floating on an inner tube.

Yellowstone
The longest freestone river in the Lower 48, the Yellowstone forms deep in the Absaroka Range and flows for nearly 700 miles through mountain gorges and across prairie flats until it joins the Missouri near Williston, North Dakota. Apart from its tumbling cascades inside the national-park boundary, which are off-limits to boaters, the best rapids lie between Gardiner and Carbella Campground. Here, two supreme sections of whitewater await the eager river-runner.

The first three miles downstream of Gardiner yield playful wave trains (Class II-III) all the way to McConnell Landing. The river mellows out for the next ten miles, but picks back up where a narrow gorge constricts near the Joe Brown put-in. The fabled Yankee Jim Canyon is a four-mile stretch with three notable features: Boat Eater, Big Rock, and Boxcar rapids. At low to medium levels, intermediate paddlers and rowers will find it exciting but manageable. When flows crest above 15,000cfs, think twice before going down. While the waves and holes become munchier, the strong eddy fences and unpredictable boils are just as likely to tip an inexperienced boatman.

Below Yankee Jim, the river’s character relaxes significantly. Occasional rapids pop up now and again, but for the most part the Yellowstone is a fishing-float from here out. Downstream from Livingston, one will find more intermediate waves between Springdale and Grey Bear. While the river appears slow from a distance, it’s worth noting that the current is sneakily strong and should be treated with utmost respect.

Madison
Renowned as a destination fly-fishing river, the Madison is more apt to attract anglers than it is paddling enthusiasts. That said, Bear Trap Canyon holds something for everyone. Set in the Lee Metcalf Wilderness, the river’s remoteness combined with its impressive rapid lineup make it one of the state’s most celebrated whitewater runs.

Below Ennis Lake, one can select from two put-ins. Entering directly below the dam will insert you into the action right away, with Double Drop Rapids (Class IV) right around the corner. For those who want a slower start, drive all the way to the end of the road and launch at the powerhouse. In one quick mile, Whitehorse Rapid provides an excellent warm-up with a steep gradient and a forgiving wave train. The meat of the run, however, is a distinctive S-turn that occurs exactly halfway down. The infamous Kitchen Sink is a string of drops that are demanding and technical at all water levels. Scout (or portage) on river right, and make sure to watch for rattlesnakes along the way. The second half of the canyon offers plenty of Class II rapids, as well as the unmistakable Green Wave, an exciting Class III to keep you honest.

For folks less interested in whitewater, the lower Madison provides a number of great scenic floats all the way to Headwaters State Park, with Warm Springs to Black’s Ford being the most popular tubing stretch.

Gear
Like many other outdoor activities, boating can take up a sizeable portion of the gear closet (actually, you’ll probably need a garage). If you’re new to the sport, the one thing you can count on needing, no matter when you go, where you go, how you go, is a PFD. Montana law mandates that you have one in the boat with you, and if you’re going to be running any sort of whitewater, we recommend not skimping on the quality.

No matter what type of craft you’ll be taking, drybags are handy. To keep an extra set of clothes, your phone, sunscreen, etc., a 20-30L bag will do just fine. For multi-day trips, look for an additional large bag (70-100L) to hold your tent, sleeping bag, and other big items. Summer is a mere three months here, and if you like to be on the water any longer than that, expect unpredictable temps. Wetsuits and drysuits allow people in small crafts to paddle comfortably throughout the spring and fall. Same goes for pogies; they can be a saving grace for your hands on a cold day. Last but not least, we’re not here to police you on risk-taking, but if you intend to dabble with some faster water, it’s a good idea to have a helmet. Yours truly has bonked his head numerous times in the Mad Mile alone. Without the brain bucket, I may not even be around, or at least coherent enough, to pen this article.

Etiquette
River manners are not hard to follow; all it takes is some self-awareness and a bit of planning. Rule number one: do not clog up the boat ramp. If you’re launching a driftboat or raft, put on sunscreen, rig up your fishing rod, and pack the cooler away from the ramp, in a manner that does not impede or prevent any other party from accessing the water. You should feel anxious every time your truck is on the ramp. Get in, get out.

While on the water, give people space. Don’t pull out from an eddy directly in front of a group that’s in the main current, and grant people fishing from the bank a wide berth. In essence, it’s the Golden Rule—follow it and the river will treat you right.

Events
May-August
Kayaking Lessons – Bozeman. Whether it’s a six-week class or a single-day private session, Wave Train Kayak offers a fleet of courses to help you work on everything from basic paddling technique to advanced whitewater mechanics. wavetrainkayakteam.com

June
Gallatin Whitewater Festival – Bozeman. Suit up for a rip-roarin’ time in high-water season. Participate in one of (or all) three whitewater races including a slalom, individual timed, and a mass start. gallatinwhitewaterfestival.com

Wednesdays
Community Paddle Day – Bozeman. Meet like-minded folks and paddle a section of choice on the Gallatin after work. wavetrainkayakteam.com

July
Annual Yellowstone River Boat Float – Livingston. Join an annual tradition that stretches back nearly 60 years and float from Livingston to Columbus on a hot weekend in July. facebook.com

 

Hard-Rock Life

by Jack Taylor

A guide to rock climbing in and around Bozeman.

Rock climbing is a hallmark of outdoor recreation. Seriously—carabiners and ropes have essentially become the universal signals of people who like to spend time outside. Oh, you’ve got a spring-loaded metal device affixed to your water bottle? Where did you go camping last weekend?

Joking aside, climbing is fun for pretty much anyone. And for some folks, it becomes an all-absorbing obsession. Perhaps there’s a primal urge hard-coded in our DNA inherited from tree-swinging apes. We have an impulse to climb. It feels good.

And fortunately, there are plenty of spots to rock climb around Bozeman. For beginners and experts alike, our mountains and valleys are dotted with cliffs of all different rock types—granite, limestone, and sandstone alike. So whether you’re an expert or neophyte, here’s what you need to know about climbing in southwest Montana.

Where to Go
Beginner
For easy sport climbing, Bear Canyon is the go-to. There are tons of bolted routes in the 5.6-5.10 range. It’s also one of the closest climbing areas to downtown Bozeman—just a 20-minute drive and 10-minute approach.

Allenspur is another great beginner-friendly zone (albeit a bit farther from town), and has some more difficult climbs to be found—it’s a good spot if you’re looking to appease climbers with a variety of skill levels.

Intermediate
When it’s time to notch it up, Practice Rock offers a selection of climbs from 5.6-5.12. There aren’t any sport climbs per se, but it’s possible to hike to the top and set up a top-rope on a bolted anchor for nearly every climb.

Another popular area is Bozeman Pass, with a variety of sport-climbing crags offering routes across a broad range of difficulty. The Training Wall is known for having some local test-pieces.

Advanced
Gallatin Canyon is the beating heart of Bozeman-area rock climbing. With hundreds of routes ranging from moderate multipitch romps to nails-hard crack climbs, there’s enough to keep a zealous climber entertained for years on end.

Wolverine Bowl has the best limestone sport climbing in the area. It’s bullet-hard, very sharp, and dotted with long pitches in the 5.11-5.12 range. Not to mention, its setting in the Bridgers is quite serene.

Far-Flung
Looking for a weekend road-trip outside the immediate area? Natural Bridge has some of the best sport climbing in the state. Pipestone has a plethora of boulders and cracks, with nice camping. The Humbug Spires offer tantalizing faces and cracks, and are steeped in climbing history.

Tying In
Around Bozeman, you’ll find lots of places to climb—and fortunately, not too many other people out there. Still, there are some important pieces of etiquette to keep in mind.

First and foremost, give people space. With plenty of room to spread out, there’s no need to be crowding another party on a route. Wait patiently for a pitch to open. There’s surely something else nearby.

On the other hand, don’t be a hoarder. Spending two hours working the most popular route at the crag on a busy weekend is pretty inconsiderate.

Music is a polarizing topic. At the end of the day, though, it’s presumptuous to think that other people are okay with you blasting tunes out there. Some of us are trying to enjoy nature for all that it is—sound (or lack thereof) included.

And then there are dogs. Lots of them around here, in fact. If you bring your dog climbing, it is absolutely imperative that you consider the impact on other people. Well-trained dogs who lay at your feet or stay out of the way are perfectly fine. But if you’ve got a four-legged nuisance on your hands who is running amok, stepping on ropes, and bothering other climbers, you’re not going to make any new pals.

Events
One of the coolest parts about climbing in Bozeman is that we have such a tight-knit community of climbers. You’re bound to start seeing familiar faces within just a few outings. On top of that, we’ve got a smattering of year-round events where you can brush up on skills, help with crag maintenance, and meet like-minded folks.

Mondays, Thursdays, Sundays
Climbing Clinics – Bozeman. Learn the fundamentals of belaying, communication, rope management, and climbing movement, then progress to more advanced skills such as leading and anchor-cleaning. spireclimbingcenter.com

Thursdays
Speaker Series – Bozeman. Swing by Uphill Pursuits on select Thursdays throughout the year for talks by local experts on everything in the mountains, from first aid to expedition reports. uphillpursuits.com

March
Spring Fling – Bozeman. Before you head outdoors for the summer, have one last hurrah at the indoor wall to celebrate climbing and watch the best throw down. spireclimbingcenter.com

May-August
Crag Maintenance – various locations. Help maintain the climbing areas we love and their access trails with the Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition. As a bonus, you’re bound to meet some like-minded folks to rope up with. swmontanaclimbers.org

June
Montana Women’s Climbing Festival – Helena. Going into its fourth year, this festival is a fun-filled gathering for lady-crushers in the area. Sign up for a clinic to learn some new skills, or just go out to enjoy the climbing and company. mtwomensclimbingfest.com

September
Tour de Hyalite – Hyalite Canyon. A classic friendly competition in an iconic setting: race to the top of Hyalite Peak and back, then climb pitches at Practice Rock to take time off the clock. swmontanaclimbers.org

 

Pedal to the Metal

by Adam Brown

Biking around the Bozone.

Take this for a spin: when it comes to mountain biking, Bozeman’s got it all. Countless alpine rides meander through lush forests and across rocky mountainsides, while fast, well-built, downhill-specific trails get the adrenaline flowing. We also have great desert-style riding just outside of town, as well as low-angle logging roads for leisurely jaunts. And when you don’t feel like driving, you can get your biking fix right out the back door.

Where to Go
Beginner
In town, hop on the Main Street to the Mountains trails at any point and go until the sun sets. Explore gravel paths through subdivisions in every direction, or pedal down the Gallagator to Peets Hill as you get your steering and balance dialed. Next you can tack on Highland Glen and Painted Hills. These trails are popular options for folks to rack up some convenient mileage before or after work. You can even ride all the way up Triple Tree if your heart and legs can handle it.

Now that you’ve gotten a feel for your bike, pedal up the old logging road alongside Bozeman Creek—also known as Sourdough. This all-dirt path climbs steadily for miles, and you can turn around whenever you’d like, to coast back down. If you take the left fork just before the bridge (about five miles in) toward Mystic Lake, the trail shrinks to singletrack and increases in difficulty—this route is called the Wall of Death.

Intermediate
Once you’re comfortable riding singletrack, head over to Crosscut for one of the area’s best trail systems. Here you’ll find a web of great single- and double-tracks for many different riding styles. Make a cross-country style loop from Loggers to the East Bridger North trail, or hop on the What Goes Up climbing trail to the Must Come Down trail for a flowy downhill experience.

Up in Hyalite, the Moser Creek area has several loop options, all of which feature shorter climbs than some of Hyalite’s burlier rides like History Rock. Although Moser’s trails are on the map, there are some confusing junctions, so do your research and figure out which loops you like most.

Advanced
South of town in the Gallatin foothills is Leverich, Bozeman’s most popular mountain-bike trail and the Custer-Gallatin National Forest’s first dedicated bike trail. During the summer, the parking lot overflows with vehicles, so make some biking friends to carpool with or park down at Nash Park and ride the road up. Leverich is meant to be ridden clockwise. Hop on the uphill-designated trail straight out of the parking lot, then climb a series of tough switchbacks and steep, rocky sections before finally topping out. Enjoy a stellar downhill with plenty of berms, jumps, hootin’, and hollerin’.

For more bike-specific trails, head to Copper City for a 20-mile network with something for everybody. Keep in mind that hikers and runners are also welcome here. You’ll find everything from a fun skills park and mellow beginner trails to rough and rowdy descents, including massive jump lines.

Saddle Up
First things first: you need a bike, and bikes are expensive, so you’ll need to overcome the initial sticker-shock. But consider yourself lucky, because our town runneth over with deals on gear. If you’re looking to spend as little as possible, start at a second-hand store, online marketplace, pawn shop, or the annual GVBC Bike Swap. If you’re willing to shell out for a new set of wheels, hit the bike shops. Remember that full-suspension is often preferred, but will be significantly more expensive to purchase and service. For some, especially casual bikers, buying a hardtail can save a grand or more.

Next, you’ll need a helmet, pack, and repair kit for those inevitable mechanical failures on the trail, plus the standard outdoor equipment: extra layer, rain shell, first-aid kit, and bear spray. Padded gloves are a great option, as are sunglasses to keep wind and debris out of your eyes while riding. You might also want some knee and elbow pads, because the crashing never stops, even after you improve.

Bikes are fun because they are freeing. How else can human power alone get you so far out there? But a malfunction is inconvenient at best, and extremely dangerous at worst. Knowing how to make a few fixes on your own will prove beneficial when something goes wrong out on the trail, and you’ll save some money because you won’t need to shell out cash every time you need work done. There are lots of great bike classes and resources in the area. Check in with local bike shops, or head to outsidebozeman.com/biking for more reading.

Etiquette
It’s always important to consider other trail users—whether they’re on foot, horseback, or motorized equipment. Use your discretion and pay attention. Spot approaching hikers as early as possible. They have the right of way, regardless of conditions, but still, there’s a good chance they’ll step off the trail to let you pass without interrupting your ride. If not, pull off to the side, give a polite nod, and carry on. Always give horses a wide berth to avoid spooking them, and when possible, pull off on the downhill side of the trail. Greeting the rider in a friendly voice often helps ease a spooky horse, too. If a biker comes upon another biker, the one going uphill has the right of way. If you’re traveling with a four-legged friend, make sure to keep her under control. And be prepared to clean up if she makes a deposit on or near the trail.

Trail preservation is the name of the game when on wheels. Since bikes damage the trail more than boots, it’s a rider’s responsibility to limit the impact. Don’t go out when trails are muddy. A good rule of thumb is that if you’re leaving deep marks in the dirt, you should consider walking that section instead of riding. If the conditions persist, turn back and try a different ride. Avoid biking off-trail, which damages vegetation and can create incidental and unwanted walkaround trails. If you come across a pool of water, take a few minutes to dig a little trench and drain it.

 

Winter Wonderland

by the editors

A guide to a winter paradise. 

Skiing might be the classic winter activity around here, but there are plenty of other things to do when the temperature plunges. Whether your legs are sore from hitting the slopes, or you’re just looking to try something new, here are a couple of our second-string favorites.

Sledding
Who said tearing down a hill on a sled is just for kids? Some folks say it only gets better with age. The bottom line is that it’s fun for anyone with a pulse. As affordable as it is accessible, sledding is a Montana pastime, and Bozeman has a number of popular spots worth checking out: Snowfill Recreation Area, Peets Hill, the Regional Park, and Langohr Campground up Hyalite are just a few. Really, any public land with a rising slope will do—just make sure the hill has a decent run-out.

Snowshoeing
If you can walk, chances are you can snowshoe—and have fun doing it. To get started, pick a trailhead. While packed snow offers easy walking, your best bet is to veer off-trail and make your own path. One of the major joys of snowshoeing is finding solitude and serenity in the winter woods. A beginner setup (shoes & poles) runs about $200 brand-new; if you’re on a budget, pick up a pair of hand-me-downs and use your ski poles.

Snowmobiling
With the power of a snowmobile, there’s a lot you can see. Whether flying around the mountains of West Yellowstone, Big Sky, Cooke City, or Island Park, a high-speed adrenaline rush is hard to beat. There are many guide and rental services scattered throughout southwest Montana, and most places that rent snowmobiles supply snowsuits, helmets, and other accessories.

Skating
Every winter, three outdoor ice rinks pop up at Bozeman parks: Bogert, Southside, and Beall. Once the ice sets up for the season—normally in late December—the rinks stay open until 10pm every day. Southside and Bogert have warming huts for cozy cups of hot chocolate and a comfortable abode to put on and take off skates. Additional skating is offered at the Haynes Pavilion, home of the local hockey league; they rent skates for $5, plus a $5 entry fee.

Ice Fishing
Don’t knock it ’til you try it—ice fishing is a classic winter activity out West. Bring an ice auger, a fishing rod, warm clothes, and a sixer to stay true to the deep-seated roots of this activity. Hyalite Reservoir is a good option for trout, but the Bozeman Pond next to the mall is a little closer to home and has a plethora of bass and panfish. Just remember to check the ice thickness before venturing out too far. It takes four inches to support the weight of an adult human.

Events
The great thing about Bozeman is that no matter your taste, there’s always something going on. Here are a few noteworthy events for you non-skiers out there.

Ongoing
Learn to Skate – Bozeman. Get tips from the pros on how to slide smoothly on ice. Classes offered for ages four and up, from beginner to advanced. gallatinice.org

October
Hocktober Scramble – Bozeman. This fun hockey series gives players of all levels a chance to test their skills—and have a blast doing it—in competitive pickup games. bozemanhockey.org

January
SNöFLINGA – Butte. There’s something for everyone here. We’re talking snowshoe tours, fatbike races, avalanche-awareness classes… the list goes on. snoflinga.org

January
Wild West Winterfest – Island Park. Join cheery folk for a winter celebration complete with a parade of snowmobiles, sleigh rides, and a kids’ carnival. islandparkchamber.org

February
Skijoring – Big Sky. If you don’t already know what skijoring is, you’re in for a treat. Head to Big Sky for an old-time wild-west showdown. bigskyskijoring.com

Editor’s note: dates are subject to change. For the most updated information, visit outsidebozeman.com/events.