Activities

Sleepin’ Around

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by Jamie Rankin

There’s nothing quite like sleeping under the stars with the sounds of crickets singing in the background, or drinking your morning coffee overlooking a ridgeline or high-alpine lake. From towering peaks to riverbanks, southwest Montana overflows with areas to lay your head outdoors—for both the novice camper and seasoned backpacker. So, pack your bags (and bear spray) and venture out to unplug. There’s an endless amount to see.

Do Your Research
Waking up at your camp spot is part of the magic, but so is finding the spot to begin with. If you go to the first place you find from a Google search, props to you—but don’t be surprised if you’re not the only one with that idea. Get to know the landscape by doing research and becoming intimate with the different types of public lands.

U.S. Forest Service land, managed by the Department of Agriculture, typically offers dispersed (read: camp where you want) camping opportunities with and without amenities, allowing for a more choose-your-own-adventure type of experience. BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land, under the Department of the Interior, also offers dispersed camping—but is known for its wide-open spaces and fewer regulations, catering to those seeking solitude and more primitive camping. State Parks, managed by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks (FWP), generally provide more developed camping facilities such as designated campsites, water spigots, and restrooms, making them more family-friendly and structured. Fishing Access Sites, also managed by FWP, offer simple camping near area rivers and lakes, and many provide restrooms and designated campsites.

Regardless of which you choose, be sure to pick a destination that matches your experience level and the desired difficulty of everyone on the trip. If you’re backpacking, is the trail physically accommodating to all on the trip? If car camping, do you need a high-clearance vehicle to access the campsite? Research the area thoroughly, understanding the trail maps and routes. Check for any necessary permits or regulations, and ensure that you are allowed to be there.

Furthermore, it’s helpful to make plans B and C for your camp spot, in the instance that your first or second choices are occupied. Montana’s weather can also vary by the hour, so it never hurts to peek at the weather forecast before heading out. Finally, always inform someone about your itinerary and expected return.

Camping in the Bitterroot National Forest

Essential Gear & Equipment
Lack of the proper gear can quickly turn your long-awaited camping trip turn into a nightmarish endeavor. Some must-have items include a quality tent and rainfly, a sleeping bag appropriate for the season, a sleeping pad for comfort and insulation, a portable stove, cooking utensils, a water filtration system, and bear spray (each individual on the trip should have a canister). Be sure to have clothing and shoes suitable for the weather and elements, and a way to keep it all dry if you get caught up in a rainstorm. A tarp, raincoat, or even spare trash bags will all do the trick.

It’s also beneficial to bring along a first-aid kit, soap or hand sanitizer, navigation tools, a headlamp, and a multi-purpose tool or knife. If you’re car camping or have weight to spare in your backpack, this list could become as extensive and glorious as you desire. Reviewing a checklist before your departure into the backcountry can ensure you don’t forget any critical items and help you pack efficiently.

At Camp
Great, you’ve arrived at camp! Now let’s make sure you leave it in the same state, if not better, than when you found it. When setting up your tent, look for a flat, sheltered area that is not too close to water—streams often rise at night from afternoon rainshowers or alpine snowmelt.

Pitch your tent on a durable surface and use a groundsheet to protect the tent floor. If you’re planning to have a group campfire, follow local regulations and practice fire safety. Properly dispose of waste (pack it in, pack it out!) and store food securely to avoid attracting wildlife. Avoid walking off the established trails at campsites to minimize your impact on the area.

Better Safe Than Sorry
A well-stocked first-aid kit complete with emergency medications is great to have on a trip, but by taking mindful precautions, you could likely avoid using it all together. As simple as it sounds, make sure to stay hydrated to combat the heat and elevation.

Having someone on the trip that knows basic first-aid procedures is ideal, and it is wise to review allergies with the group. It’s also helpful to be familiar with basic flora and fauna, as to make sure no one goes frolicking through a shrub of poison ivy or into the fangs of a rattlesnake.

Bear safety is a major precaution in southwest Montana as well. You’re in their home, after all. The camp kitchen and suspended food storage with all scented items (yep, toothpaste, lip balm, and that granola bar from the bottom of your backpack) should be at least 200 feet from your sleeping quarters.

Now that you’re all up to speed on research and safety, don’t forget to have fun and enjoy these beautiful landscapes we get to call home—from the comfort of a tent, that is.

Activities

Lines on the Water

Sticky

by Eli Fournier

Fly-fishing in Southwest Montana.

Welcome to the fly-fishing capital of Montana, if the not entire West. If you come in search of piscine pursuits, look no further. Indeed, the fishing here lives up to its reputation, and come August, the town dress code might as well be quick-dry shorts, a sun hoody, sandals, sunglasses (with Croakies), and a lucky fishing hat. But aside from looking the part, knowing a few basics is also important. Here’s a rundown on a few of the most popular local waters. For more, pick up a copy of the Cast fishing guide, available for free at most fly shops and outdoor stores around town.

Where to Go
Madison River
From the “50-mile riffle” on its upper section, to Bear Trap Canyon and the flat meanders of its lower section, the Madison has plenty of options. A driftboat or raft is the best way to access the upper, but wading is equally effective on the lower. The flows are dam-controlled, but the water can still blow out from high-flow feeder streams. Early summer is caddis; mid-summer, salmonflies; and late-summer, mayflies and terrestrials.

Gallatin River
Perhaps the most famous trout river in the West, thanks to A River Runs Through It, the Gally is worthy of the hype. The river begins as a trickle in Yellowstone National Park and ends at its confluence with the Jefferson and the Madison at Missouri Headwaters State Park. Excellent fishing is to be had throughout, although “the Canyon” is the most-heavily pressured thanks to its fish-laden pockets, cool water temps, and easy access. The river is best fished wading from the banks—in fact, it’s illegal to fish from a boat on the upper section down to the confluence with the East Gallatin River, at Manhattan. If you’re just after a few casts in the evening, the Gallatin is tough to beat.

Yellowstone River
The Yellowstone originates south of the Park in some of the most remote country in the Lower 48. When folks around town refer to fishing on the ’Stone, however, they’re typically referencing the Paradise Valley section, from Gardiner to Livingston, and even further downstream to Big Timber. The fishing is dictated by flows. Springtime pre-runoff can be good, but the real goods are had once runoff subsides in late June. The Yellowstone is primo streamer water early-season, and dry-dropper territory later in the summer. It’s a big river, and wading can be difficult—but it’s not impossible. The best way to fish the Yellowstone is from a raft, stopping at good runs to wade.

Lakes
Both alpine lakes and lowland reservoirs can be productive at the right time of year. Just after ice-off in May, trout tend to cruise the shorelines of Ennis, Quake, Hebgen, and Henry’s lakes looking for easy meals. All these stillwaters can be effectively fished from shore in early spring before the fish move out to deeper waters. Once things warm up, the high-mountain lakes really turn on. But with so many possibilities in the Gallatin, Absaroka, and Madison ranges, narrowing down the options is challenging. Fortunately, there are a couple of good guidebooks, with one of the best being Flyfisher’s Guide to Southwest Montana’s Mountain Lakes. If you’re heading anywhere in the high country, bring a rod along—there are fish in just about every lake, pond, and creek in this corner of the state.

 

Catch & Release vs. Keep & Eat
On heavily-pressured rivers—all the ones mentioned above—catch-and-release is highly encouraged. While it’s legal to keep fish on some of these rivers, if every angler kept a daily bag limit, there would be no fish left. It’s acceptable to bonk a fish for dinner every now and then, especially if it’s unlikely to survive upon release; just try not to make a habit of it. A few standard catch-and-release practices: play fish quickly, keep them in the water, limit handling to a bare minimum, and use barbless hooks.

Bonking fish in reservoirs or at high mountain lakes is less frowned upon. In fact, a lot of folks on big alpine backpacking trips don’t bring much in the way of dinner food, instead relying on trout to fill their stomachs. Bring a packet of Idahoan mashed potatoes, some salmon-rub, and tortillas for gourmet trout burritos.

Etiquette
Fishing etiquette is pretty simple: don’t be a dick on the river. Chat with other anglers, give folks space, share your knowledge with those less experienced, and if floating, don’t dilly-dally and cause a traffic jam at the boat ramp. With some basic courtesy, you shouldn’t run into any issues on the water.

Uncategorized

Peak Your Interest

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by the editors

Four iconic mountains.

Mountains surround Bozeman. Look north, and you see the Bridgers; south and it’s the Gallatin Range; west, the Madisons and Tobacco Roots. With all that elevation, we wouldn’t fault you for getting a few peaks confused. But there are some that rise above the rest, and you should know them. Here are four.

Ross Peak
Look north toward the Bridgers from anywhere on the west side of town, and you’ll immediately be drawn to the bare rock jutting skyward from the range’s midsection. That’s Ross Peak, and while it isn’t the highest in the Bridgers, it is the most iconic. The naked rock begs to be climbed and can be summited without much technical effort. Get there from the Ross Pass trailhead on the east side of the range after bumping your way along a severely rutted-out Forest Service road.

Ross Peak at sunrise

Ross Peak at sunrise


Mount Blackmore
When your gaze drifts south, it will inevitably be arrested by the crown of Hyalite, Mount Blackmore. Resting squarely in the middle of the southern horizon, Blackmore holds the last light of the day, transitioning to a purple hue as the sun sets. Read about how it was named in the Summer 2017 issue of Outside Bozeman, then hike to the summit from the trailhead bearing its name, which begins up Hyalite Canyon just below the reservoir.

Mt. Blackmore as seen from Peet's Hill.

Mt. Blackmore as seen from Peets Hill


Gallatin Peak
Believe it or not, Gallatin Peak is not in the Gallatin Range, which is confusing. But it is an impressive peak indeed, standing tall in the southwestern skyline. As the ranking member of the Spanish Peaks, Gallatin sees a lot of traffic come summer, and even a few ski descents in the spring. Viewed from town, it’s the large triangular peak on the far-left side of the Spanish Peaks, which appear to loom above the mouth of Gallatin Canyon. There are several approaches for those hoping to climb the peak, including Spanish Creek, Indian Ridge, and Beehive Basin.

The Spanish Peaks

The Spanish Peaks


Hollowtop
While most iconic peaks are defined by, well, peaks, the Tobacco Roots’ resident superstar is hollow, as its name suggests. In fact, Hollowtop looks scooped out, like some mountaintop-removal coal mine in Appalachia. That’s because another peak, Jefferson, makes up the opposite side of this high-alpine bowl. Driving west on Norris Rd. to fish the Madison, you can’t mistake the twin peaks, and both can be climbed in a single day from the North Willow Creek trailhead.

Hollowtop

The Tobacco Roots

Outdoors, Preparation

Study Up

Sticky

by Jack Taylor

You’ve made it to Bozeman, and you’re ready to explore southwest Montana’s endless expanses. But where to go first? Start out by doing some research—it pays to have a plan for every excursion. Thankfully, you have a wealth of resources at your disposal to find the best trail, mountain, or stream for your next outing. Here are some of our top picks for getting the lay of the land.

Printed Guides
Nothing beats a quality, dedicated guidebook. Build a bookshelf collection for your favorite outdoor activities, and make sure these are included:

  • Day Hikes around Bozeman (Day Hikes Books, $16)
  • Southern Montana Singletrack (Beartooth Publishing, $30)
  • Bozeman Rock Climbs (High Gravity Press, $25)
  • Paddling Montana (Falcon Guides, $25)
  • Cast: Fishing Southwest Montana (Outside Media Group, free)
  • Stalk: Hunting Southwest Montana (Outside Media Group, free)
  • The House of Hyalite (Joe Josephson, $36)
  • Peaks and Couloirs of Southwest Montana (Chris Kussmaul, $45)

Printed Maps
Even in the age of digital everything, a good ol’ printed map is an invaluable resource. For close-to-home outings, start with the Gallatin Valley Land Trust’s map, which covers all the trails in and around Bozeman proper. It’s available from retailers around town for $3. (For a digital version, download one for free at gvlt.org/trails/trail-map.)

For Bozeman’s premier backyard playground, Hyalite Canyon, the nonprofit Friends of Hyalite makes a great fold-out recreation map in two versions: winter and summer. Pick one up around town for $5, or view it digitally at hyalite.org/recreation-maps.

Beartooth Publishing is our go-to for detailed topographic maps of southwest Montana, complete with roads, trails, and usage restrictions; order print copies from beartoothpublishing.com or find them in local stores. Our favorite all-around option is Bozeman Area Outdoor Recreation Map, which sells for $14.

For general trip planning throughout the state, pick up a copy of the DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer (DeLorme, $25). For more detail, order zoomed-in, area-specific, waterproof maps from MyTopo (mytopo.com), a custom-mapping outfit in Billings. A large-format wall map of southwest Montana from Basin and Range Mapping (basinandrangemap.com) will help you see the big picture and make planning that much easier.

Apps
For hunters and anglers, there are only three apps you need on your smartphone or GPS: Montana Fishing Access, Montana Hunting Access, and OnX Hunt. The first two are activity-specific and produced right here in Bozeman by Mountainworks Software (emountainworks.com); the latter is the leading map for property-ownership boundaries and is based in Missoula (onxmaps.com).

Websites
You’ll find plenty of information online to learn about local outdoor opportunities. For a collection of general resources, head to outsidebozeman.com and poke around—all day, if you’re not careful. Looking for specific trail descriptions? Check out outsidebozeman.com/trails, hike.wildmontana.org, gvlt.org/trails/featured-trails, or trailforks.com. For updates and news in the world of mountain biking, including suggested rides, take a look at southwestmontanamba.org. Climbers, head to swmontanaclimbers.org for access information and stewardship projects. If you’re heading for the rivers, check out waterdata.usgs.gov for water levels, bigskyfishing.com for angling info, and fwp.mt.gov for fishing regulations. In the winter, if you plan on heading into the backcountry, stay updated with avalanche forecasts from mtavalanche.com. For general tips & tricks regarding outdoor safety and skills, check out outsidebozeman.com/skills.

Stores
Nothing beats a well-stocked retailer for hands-on gear comparisons, along with free advice from local professionals. Southwest Montana teems with outdoor shops; stop in and hit ‘em up for tips and guidance. Just be sure to buy something while you’re there; Montanans are a friendly, helpful lot, but nobody likes a freeloader.

Around the Bozone

Town Trails

Sticky

by the editors

Around Bozeman, trailheads are everywhere—but did you know that dozens of trails run right through town? They’re part of the Main Street to the Mountains trail system, and you can hop on these- in-town trails nearly anywhere. Whether you’re sneaking in a mid-day run or a half-day biking excursion, here are a few options to consider.

The Gallagator
This trail connects Bogert Park and Peets Hill to the MSU campus on the south end of town. It follows Bozeman Creek for much of its length, passing the Langhor gardens and climbing boulder along the way. Numerous access points exist along the length of this trail; the main one is at the base of Peets Hill.

Peets Hill
If you’re on a quick jaunt or dog-walk on the Gallagator, be sure check out Peets Hill. It’s not only a popular spot to gaze out over the valley, but offers sledding in the winter and picture-perfect sunsets year-round. Peets Hill also makes a great jumping-off point, as it connects to Lindley Park and the Highland Glen trails.

Highland Glen
A newer addition to Bozeman’s trail system, Highland Glen Nature Preserve offers singletrack for bikers, runners, and dog-walkers alike. It has three access points: at the sports complex off Haggerty Ln., via Hyalite View Trail above the hospital, and near the Painted Hills trailhead off Kagy. These trails are groomed in the winter for cross-country skiing.

East Gallatin Rec Area
This easy trail meanders around Glen Lake and through thick forest along the East Gallatin River. This is the perfect spot for a quick mid-day lap or a leisurely day spent in the water and sun. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, amble over to Map Brewing for some grub and a growler.

Story Hills
The Story Hills rise moderately from the northeast corner of town. Though private, this property is open to the public during daylight hours. The sunny single-track is great for in-town biking, running, or dog-walking with nice views of the town and valley. It’s often busy, so hit it early in the morning or for a nice sunset stroll.

For longer outings, use the town trails to connect to these popular spots just outside city limits.

M Trail
At the mouth of Bridger Canyon is the landmark M, created by Montana State University students in 1915. There are two routes to the M from the trailhead. A steep, direct path branches right at the first junction, where an easier and longer ascent makes a hard left. This trail is very popular—the views of the Gallatin Valley are spectacular, and hikers use the trail as a lunchbreak loop or out-and-back.

Drinking Horse
Drinking Horse Mountain is the prominent hill across from the M. Its trail starts out meandering along the fish hatchery to a bridge over Bridger Creek, after which a junction presents two options. Going left puts you on a steeper ascent, with multiple switchbacks and plentiful shade. The path to the right is longer and more gradual, with open views of the Gallatin Range. Drinking Horse is a dog-friendly trail; however, keep in mind the high density of people and pups when deciding whether to let your dog off the leash. 

Triple Tree
Use the Painted Hills trail off Kagy to connect to Triple Tree, a shaded loop trail in the Gallatin foothills. The trail crosses Limestone Creek several times as it winds its way up to an overlook with gorgeous valley views.

Around the Bozone

Code of the West

by Courtney King

Many folks are moving to Montana through a great migration from cities and areas that are experiencing wildfires, riots, and hurricanes. If you are among the newbies, welcome—and help us preserve our Montana lifestyle through the Code of the West.

The Code of the West is a set of informal laws that originally shaped the cowboy culture of the Old West, and is still active today. What are these unwritten rules, and why are they important? If you come from a bigger city where it’s more acceptable not to speak to strangers and keep to yourself, know that it’s basically the complete opposite here. If you come from California and wonder why you feel shunned all of a sudden, there’s a backstory to this behavior. Previous newcomers tried to bring Californian ways to Montana that simply were not well-received.

The pioneers of the West, agree with them or not, paved the way to civilization using laws of the land. While things have changed with the times, in Bozeman we stay true to the best of those values. Statutory morals centered on hospitality, fair play, loyalty, and respect for the land and each other. We treat others as we want to be treated, and we still hold the contract of a gentleman’s agreement to a high standard. Most folks still consider a handshake a contract.

The Code’s implications can be as simple as waving to a passerby driving down your road, to striking up a brief conversation with someone out on the trail. Montana is not a hurried lifestyle; take your time and enjoy it. If you’re coming from out of state, embrace your new different life.

Back in the day, anyone who broke the Code became a social outcast. Here is a brief list still applicable today as it was back then—if not in the literal sense, at least in the figurative.

  • Don’t inquire into a person’s past. Take the measure of a man for what he is today.
  • Don’t ask a rancher how many cattle she has; that’s like asking how much money she has in the bank.
  • Close the gate when you open it.
  • Say howdy to folks on the trail (and pick up your dog’s indiscretions).
  • Never order anything weaker than whiskey.
  • Always fill your whiskey glass to the brim.
  • Do not practice ingratitude.
  • A cowboy always helps someone in need, even a stranger or an enemy.
  • Real cowboys are modest. A braggart who is “all gurgle and no guts” is not tolerated.
  • Respect the land and the environment by not smoking in hazardous fire areas, and not disfiguring rocks, trees, or other natural areas.
  • Honesty is absolute—your word is your bond; a handshake is more binding than a contract.
Activities

All in a Summer

by Eli Fournier

Come summertime, there are the classic warm-weather pastimes like hiking, biking, climbing, and fishing, but numerous other activities can also fill a weekend. Listed here are a handful that make for fun excursions and take you to off-the-beaten-path locales.

Hunting
Montana is quite possibly the most hunter-friendly state in the country—both in terms of opportunity and the amount of game running around the hills. While elk and deer have a huge appeal, for newbies a good place to start is small game like grouse, squirrels, and rabbits. Learn to find, hunt, gut, skin, and cook them—gain competency with these smaller species before thinking about pursuing larger game. Rabbits and squirrels can be hunted year-round, so poke around some public land—ideally off-trail, to avoid spooking hikers—with a .22 rifle or 20-gauge shotgun. On September 1st, mountain-grouse season opens, and targeting these tasty birds really just involves hiking around the woods with a shotgun. Either a 12- or 20-gauge will get the job done. Look for ruffed grouse in thick brushy areas with abundant berries, and blue grouse on ridgetops. Either way, stay on high alert—these birds are often quick to fly when spooked.

Foraging
Part of living in Montana is learning basic woodsman skills—like starting a fire and identifying edible plants. If the latter is new to you, berry-picking is a great place to start. Huckleberries, wild strawberries, and raspberries are all easy to identify and can be picked in large quantities in the right places, at the right times. That means you could be reaping the rewards of your labors for months to come.

Another commonly-foraged food in southwest Montana is mushrooms. Morels in the spring and chanterelles in late summer provide two opportunities to fill the pantry with wild fungi. However, there are poisonous lookalikes for both species, so it’s worth going with someone who can positively identify both the safe and harmful varieties. An experienced forager can also show you the types of places to look for mushrooms—they require specific soil types, shading, and temperatures.

ChanterelleForaging-HebgenLake-EliFournier-4

Packrafting
Although a relatively niche activity, packrafting offers an adrenaline-packed avenue into relatively untouched places. Boats are expensive, but once acquired can open up a huge number of possibilities in southwest Montana. Think about hiking deep into a wilderness area and floating out in style, taking in the sights, sounds, and wildlife from the comfort of a boat. Modern packrafts are also capable whitewater boats, and with an experienced paddler at the helm, they can handle most things a larger raft or kayak could. Ask around and you can likely find someone with a packraft to test out before you go full-send on the activity. Just be sure to take care of your friend’s boat, and repay ’em with a sixer of beer.

Canoeing
While whitewater certainly steals the show in southwest Montana, stillwater shouldn’t be overlooked. Canoeing can be a tranquil way to spend a day, or if you’re into fishing, a productive means of covering water and finding fish. Some good options are Hebgen, Quake, and Ennis lakes. All three can get dangerously windy for canoes, though, especially in the afternoons. So consider putting on early. There are also a handful of canoe-friendly rivers that could make for overnight excursions, especially in late summer when the water’s too low for rafts. Look toward the Jefferson, Big Hole, Beaverhead, and Yellowstone, to name a few. Just remember that per Montana law, you must have a PFD on board for every person. Doesn’t mean you have to wear it all day, but it’s gotta be in the boat.

Regardless of how you enjoy a Montana summer, it’s hard to go wrong so long as you’re outside. Find a friend or mentor who’s into any of the above activities (shouldn’t be hard), and off you’ll ride (or paddle, or hunt) into the sunset.

Activities

Keep Rollin’

by Eli Fournier

Drive around town these days, and you’ll notice mountain bikes hanging off vehicles left and right. Who are these people and where are they going, you ask? Well, turns out these folks are part of a flourishing and growing mountain-bike scene here in Bozeman—one well worth partaking in. Mountain biking can be expensive to get into (as with any outdoor sport), but once you have the basic gear, the options are endless. Here’s a rundown on local singletrack.

Where to Go
For a newbie, there are miles of trails in and around town that make for easy between-class or after-work excursions. For a classic ride, hop on the Gallagator to Peets Hill. Once atop, take a connector trail east to Highland Glen, and then turn south on the Painted Hills singletrack toward the Gallatin Range. The trail rolls and flows for a couple miles, eventually tying in with Triple Tree—an easy lollipop loop best ridden counterclockwise. Be careful coming down on the stem of the loop, as there are a few blind corners and lots of uphill traffic from both hikers and other bikers. Head back the way you came, or on Sourdough Road.

Another short, popular ride near town is Leverich Canyon, a small drainage tucked into the foothills between Hyalite and Bozeman Creek. For an extra workout, ride South 3rd from town to the trailhead. If you drive, know that parking is limited, and the access road is surrounded by private land, so there’s no overflow parking if the lot’s full. It only holds about two dozen cars. The Leverich Loop is designed to be ridden clockwise, and the downhill is built out with some flowy jumps and turns.

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide.

For something a little more challenging, but still well within the wheelhouse of an afternoon ride, look to Chestnut Mountain. To get there, hop on I-90 eastbound and take the Trail Creek exit about ten miles from town. Cross the train tracks, and park on the side of the road at the base of the mountain. Chestnut can be ridden as an out-and-back up the mountain, but the uphill is brutally steep. More popular is a loop up Trail Creek Road to the Goose Creek Trailhead, then around the backside of the mountain and down the front. It’s a challenging, 15-mile ride with several thousand feet of elevation gain and drop, but the views from up top are epic—not to mention you get a ripping downhill for the last 30 minutes of the ride. (Note: this trail is popular with hikers, runners, and dog-walkers, so be sure to slow down at blind corners and in general just be aware, mindful, and courteous.)

Once you’ve got a handful of riding days under your belt, test your endurance, strength, and technical skills on the Bangtail Divide. Park on the side of Stone Creek Road, right off Bridger Canyon. Park in a convenient and respectful spot—the landowner bordering the road filed a lawsuit against the Forest Service to cut off public access here, so try not to make things any worse than they already are. The trail begins by climbing for a couple hours on a series of switchbacks up and around Stone Creek, then flattens out as it hits the divide. The trail then turns north, running the ridge all the way to Brackett Creek. Ride the highway back for about a 25-mile loop in total, or hitchhike a ride.

Also on the east side of the Bridgers is Crosscut Mountain Sports Center, which maintains a number of mountain-bike trails in the foothills. Crosscut hosts clinics throughout the summer to hone skills like downhill riding and cornering. Practice on their mellow terrain, then take your newfound abilities to more technical mountain trails.

Once you’ve got a handle on the basics, it might be time for some downhill dirt. A number of ski areas in the region offer downhill, lift-accessed bike trails in the summer—including Discovery, Big Sky, and Grand Targhee. The three offer very different experiences, from the commercial feel of Big Sky to the mom-and-pop vibe at Targhee, and the small-town Montana aura of Disco. What doesn’t change, however, is the risk of downhill riding. It’s dangerous—no two ways about it. Consider a full-face helmet, knee & elbow pads, and even chest pads if you’re serious about sending big lines. Check your bike thoroughly beforehand, too. Ensure your wheel hubs are tight, brakes are bled, pads are fresh, and shocks are lubed. Downhill riding can be an exhilarating, scary, skill-building experience.

MtntoMeadows-DanielTeitelbaum-26

Essential Gear
Mountain biking ain’t a cheap sport. First, there’s the initial investment in a bike. If you’re just getting into it, look at hardtails, which only have front suspension. They’re great to learn and hone your skills on, but if you stick with it, you’ll almost certainly want to upgrade to a full-suspension bike at some point. These more-expensive options typically have beefier suspension in the front fork, and an additional shock built into the frame to absorb hits to the back wheel. They’re a much smoother ride, and are capable of things that you really can’t do—or at least do well—on a hardtail.

In addition to a bike, you’ll need shoes, which come in the “flat” and “clipless” varieties. Flats are normal shoes, and a lot of people just ride in Vans or street shoes with flat soles. Flats allow you to bail off the bike quickly, if need be. They’re great to learn on, and lots of expert riders swear by flats. On the other hand, clipless pedals (which is a bit of a misnomer), secure your feet to the pedals with a mechanical mechanism, and give you power on up- and down-strokes. They’re preferred by lots of endurance riders and racers, but are certainly a bit challenging to learn on. You’ll fall over a handful of times before figuring out how to quickly release your shoes from the pedals.

You’ll also need a brain bucket. Remember, helmets are one-and-done, meaning if you take a big hit, you need to throw it away and buy a new one to fully protect your noggin. Don’t cut corners here—it’s not worth the risk. Also useful, but not necessary, is a hydration pack. Hip packs are the most comfortable to ride with as they put the weight on your lower back instead of your shoulders; but backpacks are fine, too. Finally, bring along a patch kit, packable pump, and spare innertube.

Etiquette
Let’s keep this short and simple. According to the rules, downhill bike traffic yields to uphill traffic, and bikes yield to both pedestrians and horses. However, if you ask politely or give a friendly “on your left,” most hikers will clear the trail for you. It’s often easier for them to step off to the side than for a biker to drag his bike off the trail. Be friendly to other riders, and offer assistance if you come across a rider with a flat tire or mechanical problem. It’ll come back around when you inevitably need help at some point down the trail.

Preparation

Camp Chef

CampCooking-WindRiverRange-JackTaylor-1by Jack Taylor

Cooking in the backcountry.

Cooking can be one of the most stressful aspects of camping for beginners, and one of the most joyful for veterans. Eating good food will not only keep you energized during your trip, but will also boost your morale. There’s nothing as sweet as kicking your feet up with a hot, tasty meal and watching the sunset from camp after a hard day of playing out in the backcountry. Here’s a rundown on how to crush camp cooking.

Stoves
There are three types of camp stoves to choose from: butane, propane, and white gas. Butane stoves are light and simple, but are less versatile and don’t do well in cold temps. Propane stoves are powerful, versatile, and great for car or river camping, but they’re too heavy for backpacking. White gas stoves are versatile and light, but they’re slightly more complicated to operate and maintain. Choose the right stove for your application.

Fire
Cooking on an open fire is one of the great pleasures of camp cooking. Get the fire started well beforehand to ensure you’ve got some nice hot coals to work with. Move the coals around to adjust heat. You can cook with a grill-grate, cast-iron pan, or Dutch oven. Looking for something lighter? The Fry-Bake Expedition Pan is aluminum and rated by the manufacturer for open-fire cooking. It’s expensive, but it’s the best lightweight pan you can buy.

Cook Kit
Keep your cook kit simple. A frying pan and one pot with a lid should suffice—size depends on how many you’re cooking for. Get a small metal spatula and a pair of pliers to grip your cookware. Bring a small, sharp knife and small cutting board. Opinel has some great utensils, and Gerber makes excellent bowls and plates for serving food. If you like coffee, GSI offers a light, reusable pour-over device. Don’t forget your mug!

Spice Kit
If you want to cook great food in the backcountry, you need to add some flavor. A small assortment of seasonings and spices goes a long way. MSR makes a compact salt-and-pepper container that’s great for other spices, too—keep a few in a small stuff sack. Take whatever spices you like, but never go without salt and oil. Chicken bouillon powder and hot sauce are also kick-ass. Experiment with dry sauce packets such as instant gravy, alfredo sauce, and chili mix.

SethDailey-EggsBacon

Produce
Even without a method of refrigeration, you can still bring some produce on your camping trip. Raw meat and leafy greens can go unrefrigerated for the better part of a day. Most veggies will last for at least a few days, while hardy fruits and veggies such as oranges, apples, potatoes, onions, and carrots are good for a week or more. Summer sausage, cheese, and butter will also last over a week, provided you keep it sealed and cool.

Dry Goods
Whether you’re backpacking, river camping, or car camping, you’ll want the majority of your food to be dry and non-perishable. Rice and pasta are obvious staples, which can be spun into an immense variety of meals by adding other ingredients. Dried fruits and nuts are great for snacking, and can be added to breakfasts such as oatmeal or granola for some extra flair (add powdered milk for more flavor and calories). If you have a dehydrator, you can make DIY dehydrated foods—canned chicken or beans, mushrooms, frozen peas or corn, and zucchini all rehydrate well.

Baking
Backcountry baking? You betcha. If you want to take camp cooking to the next level, baking is where it’s at. You can use baking powder to leaven pancakes, biscuits, scones, and muffins. If you want to get real fancy, use instant yeast to leaven bread, pizza, or cinnamon rolls.

Recipes
One of the most fun parts of camp cooking is coming up with your own recipes. Put veggies and seasonings into rice or couscous to make a pilaf. Fry some potatoes, then load up the skillet with meat and cheese for a hearty breakfast scramble. Cook pasta, then layer it with sauce and cheese to make a casserole. The sky’s the limit!

Around the Bozone

Sound & Fury

CopperCityJumping-AshleyDunneby Adam Brown

Classic music & recreation combos.

Here in Montana, we take a few things pretty seriously. Among them are music and outdoor recreation, along with rodeos, dancing, and getting dirty outside. Even better is when we can combine them all into a day’s worth of fun and adventure. Coincidentally, it just so happens that some of the best music events happen right next to some of the best recreation in the region. Here are a few combo ideas to get the juices flowing.

Bridger Brewing, Three Forks
This is one of the area’s newest music venues, and they’ve started out strong by bringing some great shows to the region. They have an outdoor stage where talent comes, big and small, to perform with the Bridger Mountains as the stage backdrop. They also bring bands indoors all year long so you can catch local music with pub fare and a pint in winter. Beforehand, hike at Headwaters State Park, bike Copper City, or fish the Madison.

Music on Main
This is a summertime staple. Put on by the Downtown Bozeman Association, it marks the time when summer is in full force. Energy levels are high and the town is buzzing. The downtown strip closes for the evening and a stage is erected right on Bozeman Ave. Shows happen every Thursday. Before catching some tunes, consider biking Leverich, fishing the East Gallatin, or climbing in Bear Canyon.

Music in the Mountains
Another must-see during the summer season, these events are put on by the Arts Council of Big Sky. Every Thursday throughout the season, folks fill the park in the middle of Big Sky’s Town Center to dance and groove. Before the show, hike to Ousel Falls, fish the Gallatin, or bike the Mountain to Meadow trail, which ends pretty much right at the stage.

PineCreekLodgeConcert-3

Pine Creek
Pine Creek is one of the coolest venues in the area. Located in Paradise Valley, the stage is set back at the base of the Absarokas and is surrounded by woods. It’s truly a magical place, and manages to book some world-class acts. While in the area, take a whole day to fish and float the Yellowstone, climb at Allenspur, or bike Trail Creek.

Gravel Bar & Willie’s Distillery
There’s almost always something going on around the block over in Ennis. It’s a great way to mix things up and do new things, like fishing the upper Madison, soaking in Norris Hot Springs, or swimming in Ennis Lake. Burgers at the “G-Bar” are pretty dang good, too. Afterward, enjoy the bands and solo acts that grace these and other establishments several nights a week.

The Rialto / The Elm / Live from the Divide / Filling Station
When you’re looking for a chill evening in town, look toward these musical hotspots, year-round. Pair them with some outdoor excursions such as skiing Bridger Bowl, biking the Bangtail Divide, swimming in Fairy Lake, or hiking Mount Baldy. It’s tough to go wrong, even right here in town!

Around the Bozone

An Outdoor Affair

CampingCouple-MimiMatsudaby Eli Fournier

The top ten outdoor dates near Bozeman.

Ever meet a first date for dinner at 7pm, only to find yourself cooped up indoors at some generic watering hole, surrounded by other people, with someone you quickly realize you don’t even like? Fortunately, in Bozeman, there’s a plethora of other options and things to do outside—so even if you don’t hit it off, the date isn’t a waste of an evening. Here’s our list of ten great spots for an outdoor date.

Peets Hill: There aren’t many better spots to watch a sunset than on a bench overlooking Bozeman and the entire Gallatin Valley. Best part is, your house ain’t far away if you want to take things further than a walk in the park.

Driving Dirt Roads: Get lost, crack some beers, fold the seats down… maybe even let ‘em take the wheel. You’ll want good suspension—for multiple reasons.

Shakespeare in the Parks: Grab a blanket, some snacks & beverages, and settle down with your Romeo or Juliet for an evening of comic, or dramatic, relief. You can find these shows in hamlets (ha) all across Montana.

Hyalite Reservoir: Head up the canyon for an afternoon of hiking, paddleboarding, and picnicking. If things go well, you can even hop in the lake for a skinny dip.

Yellowstone Park Tour: Take a day trip to the Lamar Valley for some quality animal- and people-watching, which also makes a great IQ & compatibility check. E.g., when your date sees a bear, does he stop in the middle of the road and block traffic like an idiot? Does she take photos of coyotes, or selfies 20 feet from a bison?

Lewis & Clark Caverns Tour: Recreation’s great, but geology and history are cool, too. The caverns are dark, with many nooks and crannies to sneak away for a quick smooch.

Bozeman Pass: A nice walk from the Trail Creek parking lot to the climbing area provides plenty of time to shoot the breeze. Can his soft computer hands handle the limestone? And how deft are they—on the rock or elsewhere?

Big Timber Rodeo: Does your date dress like an obvious urban cowboy or cowgirl? Does she complain when the only drink options are Coors Light and boxed wine? Does he know how to swing dance? These are all make-it-or-break-its ’round here.

Brackett Creek: For some alone time in the woods, head to Brackett Creek for a winter Nordic ski. Does your date get cold easily? How does he perform when out of his comfort zone? These can be telltale signs of how things will work out.

Lower Madison: There aren’t many legal ways to get your date drunk and partially naked faster than a booze cruise on the Lower Madison. Put in at Warm Springs, and by the time you take out at Black’s Ford, you might know his or her darkest secrets—and kinks, for that matter.

Around the Bozone

Road Code

by Eli Fournier

Unlike other customs and etiquette around Montana, driving dirt roads is somewhat subjective and situationally-dependent. There are times when it’s okay to rally a dirt road like a redneck racecar driver, and times when it isn’t. Use the following as a guide to assess the situation and determine the proper dirt-road behavior.

Waving
Acceptable: Practice a one- or two-finger wave, and flash it over the steering wheel at other drivers who are also observing proper dirt-road etiquette.

Unacceptable: Not waving back at another driver, or flipping someone off for some minor infraction. Like the rest, use your judgement—appropriate etiquette can change depending on the situation.

Speed
Acceptable: What the hell else are dirt roads for? Letting ‘er rip on a straightaway comes naturally, so long as there’s a clear line of sight and no houses on either side.

Unacceptable: Forcing other cars off the road, cutting blind corners, and in general being oblivious or indifferent to the effect on others.

Mud
Acceptable: It’s pretty damn fun to slide around a bit on muddy roads—especially at the end of a spring or fall day when things have melted out and it’s a necessary evil to getting home.

Unacceptable: Intentionally ripping up wet, muddy roads, gouging out tracks and leaving ruts just for the sport of it.

Dust
Acceptable: If it’s hot and dry, you’re gonna dust people—no two ways about it. But use discretion and slow down, especially when passing houses, pedestrians, and bikers.

Unacceptable: Flying past bikers or hikers, leaving them blinded and choking on mouthfuls of tangy dust.

Hunting
Acceptable: Scouting for game from the road is a great, effective tactic, but don’t stop in the middle of the road to glass. Pull off to the side so other vehicles can get past.

Unacceptable: Shooting animals from the car or on the road. Step completely out of the road easement (generally, 30 feet from the centerline) before even thinking about loading the gun.

Roadies
Acceptable: Cracking a cold one when you turn off the highway or are heading home from hunting camp. Keep ’er in check, in control, and out of the ditch.

Unacceptable: Slamming a six-pack, tossing the cans out the window, and endangering other road users.