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Be Here Now

by Carson Sprague


Welcome to the Bozone.

Congratulations, you finally packed up your life, waved goodbye to your friends & family, and moved to Bozeman. Whether your move took you over winding mountain passes, across roiling rivers, or through huge swathes of grasslands, marshes, swamps, or cornfields is inconsequential. What matters is that you’re here now. Regardless of the terrain you’ve covered or your motivations for moving, welcome.

I’m one of the lucky few who actually grew up here—I didn’t stumble upon it in my late teens or early twenties. Now, my folks weren’t crazy outdoorsmen, and for a long time, neither was I. I spent years taking this place for granted. I didn’t realize how unusually lucky I was to have world-class skiing, fishing, hunting, and trail systems right outside my front door. It was only after I left Bozeman in search of someplace better that I realized nowhere else could measure up: great skiing but no rivers, great rivers but no biking, great biking but no hunting—the list goes on. But back home in Bozeman, I could do it all. And friend, so can you.

Truth be told, you’d need multiple lifetimes, a bottomless pit of cash, and scores of adventure buddies to ever cover all the bases.

Like all the B-Towns—Bellingham, Boulder, Bend, Burlington—Bozeman’s recreational offerings are seemingly endless. Truth be told, you’d need multiple lifetimes, a bottomless pit of cash, and scores of adventure buddies to ever cover all the bases. But if there was ever a place to be a jack of all trades, then you’ve found it.

With so much to do, and so little time, getting overwhelmed is seemingly inevitable. We all want to bike Leverich, paddle the “Big Three” (Beartrap Canyon, Yankee Jim Canyon, and the Mad Mile), compete in the Ridge Run, catch a 22-inch trout, ski the Beartooths, jam out at Music on Main and Music in the Mountains, backpack in the Absarokas, climb in Bear Canyon, and camp in the Tobacco Roots. And that just covers the warmer months. So take your time, and soak it all in. If that means calling in sick to work on a powder day, taking a gap year, or skipping class to fish a hatch, then so be it. Do everything you can think of and then do some more. Drink up every ounce of this place you possibly can. Make hay while the sun is shining and get while the getting’s good.

Now, as good as all this might sound, there’s a good chance you’ve begun to question where you should even start. Lucky for you, you already have. This little book, The Blue Light Guide, was written with you—the burgeoning Bozemanite—in mind. It’s our goal to help you settle into the next stage of your life here in southwest Montana, show you the ropes, and help you come to love and appreciate this place as much as we do. So, dive on in, find your next adventure, and remember to be here now. After all, time waits for no man.

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Talk the Talk

Learning the lingo of your new outdoor hobby.

Picking up a new activity is hard enough, and trying to figure out what your more advanced counterparts are talking about doesn’t make it any easier. With so much hyper-specific lingo—much of which is not intuitive—understanding what the hell your mentors are saying can be half the battle. Thankfully, we’ve compiled some of the most common jargon you’re likely to hear, from the river’s edge to the ridge and everywhere in between. So read on, and maybe someday you’ll be able to not just walk the walk, but talk the talk.

BIKING

Tacky / Hero Dirt / Brown Pow
Dirt that is mostly smooth, mostly rock-free, and has just enough moisture to hold your tires like glue. The ideal trail condition.

Clipless
Pedals that lock your shoes in place while you bike. Confusing, we know.

OTB (Over the Bars)
An unplanned dismount resulting from an abrupt change in speed which catapults you over your handlebars.

Technical
Steep, difficult trails with rocks, roots, and tight turns that demand precise movement and control. Often abbreviated by biker bros as simply “tech.”

Flow
Smooth, sculpted trails built for speed with berms, rollers, and jumps.

Rooster Tail
The spray of dirt or dust kicked up by your rear tire as you accelerate through a corner or berm. Cool kids truncate this metaphor to “roost.”

—Adam Brown

Elbow Lake Camping
CAMPING

Camp Spice
Flavor acquired by dirt and other natural objects getting into your camp food. “Don’t worry about it, dude. It’s just a bit of camp spice.”

Base Weight
The minimum cumulative weight of one’s packed backpack and gear without accounting for food & water.

Cowboy Camping
Sleeping out under the stars without a tent, tarp, or overhead structure.

Camel-Up
Drinking extra while at a water source to reduce the risk of possible dehydration later.

Freestanding
A tent whose structure relies on tent poles included with the tent

Non-Freestanding
A tent whose structure relies on other objects—such as trekking poles or sticks—not included with the tent.

Dirty Dinner
The first meal one consumes after returning from a trip to the backcountry; typically a gut-buster.

—Megan Gorsky

CLIMBING

Beta Spraying
Sharing the sequence of moves, tips, or tricks for a climb without being prompted to. An impressively annoying faux pas.

Protection
Gear—including cams, nuts, and quickdraws—climbers place to catch falls. Often shortened to just “pro.”

Runout
A long stretch between pieces of protection. Falling here comes with consequences.

Yarding
Grabbing the rope, gear, or quickdraws to haul yourself upward instead of climbing clean.

Pumped
When your forearms fill with lactic acid from exertion and your grip strength plummets—often the consequence of squeezing holds harder than necessary.

Flapper
A flap of skin forcibly removed from your fingertip or palm by the rock face.

Bail biner
The sacrificial carabiner you leave behind when you can’t finish a climb.

—Fischer Genau

Fishing rock creek
FISHING

Honey Hole / Honey Bucket
A particularly productive section of water that reliably holds good-sized fish.

High- or Low-Holed
When another angler cuts in close and begins fishing the water you were working toward; high-holed for upstream and low-holed for downstream. Widely considered one of the worst offenses in fishing etiquette.

Hog, Pig, Toad, Lunker, Slab
A fish that’s notably larger than average for the species.

Skunked
A day fishing with nothing to show for it. Often accompanied by excuses about weather, water levels, etc.

LDR (Long-Distance Release)
When a hooked fish throws the hook or comes unbuttoned before being brought to hand. Sometimes celebrated as “intentional catch-and-release from afar.”

—Adam Brown

Emigrant Peak
HIKING

Type 1 Fun
An excursion that is fun while you’re doing it.

Type 2 Fun
An excursion that stinks, but is fun to reminisce on afterwards.

Bonk
To hit the physical wall from over-exertion or lack of calories.

Cairn
A small stack of rocks delineating the trail. Don’t build new ones; it mars the landscape and can mislead future hikers.

Trail Magic
Unexpected acts of kindness, generosity, or good fortune on the trail; i.e., just as you were about to give up and turn around, a stranger appears, providing snacks, encouragement, and guidance.

Hiker Funk
The potent, unmistakable odor that clings to hikers after a long outing. A combination of sweat, sunscreen, moldy socks, and body odor.

—Adam Brown

Kayak touring Montana
PADDLING

Eddy
Pools of still water near the banks of a river caused by the current backfilling negative space behind rocks or other obstructions into the river.

Tongue
The smooth, fast water in the middle of a wave—the best place to be. Everybody loves a tongue ride.

Rig to Flip
To rig your gear in such a way that it remains secure even if you flip. Often used in conjunction with “Let’s get rowdy.”

Bootie Beer
A punishment for kayakers who were unable to roll their boat and are subsequently made to drink a beer from their river shoe—a.k.a. bootie.

Maytagged
The generally horrifying experience of being recirculated underwater, akin to being stuck in a washing machine’s spin cycle.

—Carson Sprague

Ice Climbing Hyalite
ICE CLIMBING

Ice Tools
Curved axes designed for climbing ice. Different than mountaineering axes, which are made for climbing snow.

Frontpoints
The often-serrated tips of your crampons that grip the ice as you kick.

Screamin’ Barfies
The painful sensation of blood rushing back into the fingers after climbing a cold, strenuous pitch—often accompanied by dry-heaving or vomiting.

V-Thread
A type of anchor built by drilling two intersecting holes in the ice with ice screws, which a rope can be threaded through.

Dinner Plates
Scary, delaminating ice that typically forms on convex bulges or where ice is intermixed with snow.

Hero Ice
Perfect, sticky blue ice that is easy to swing into and holds your tools solidly. This is what it’s all about!

—Jack Taylor

Crosscut nordic clinic singletrack skiing
NORDIC SKIING

Cross-Country
A blanket term encompassing general touring, skate skiing, and metal-edge touring. Also known as Nordic skiing.

Classic Technique
A traditional cross-country skiing style where opposite arm and leg move together. Also known as kick & glide or diagonal stride.

Scales
The fish-scale-like pattern on the bottom of a traditional cross-country ski, providing traction for the kick portion of the aforementioned kick & glide.

Skate Skiing
A technique where the skier keeps the tips of the skis apart and pushes off side-to-side, mimicking ice skating.

Groomed Trail
Trails smoothed and maintained by machines, often found at Nordic ski resorts but also on public trails and golf courses.

Basket
A plastic disk near the end of a ski pole that prevents it from sinking into snow, allowing the skier to push off.

—Leah Veress

Skiing Bode Miller
SKIING

Après Ski
French for “after ski,” though a more realistic translation would be “after party.”

Tomahawk
A crash that sends you ass-over-teakettle over and over, as though you were a spinning tomahawk.

Bluebird
When the sun is shining, the sky is clear, and the visibility is unlimited. It’s bluebird, baby.

Yard Sale
A wreck that scatters your gear across the slope, making it appear as though you’re having an impromptu yard sale.

Face Shot
When the powder’s so deep that your turns kick snow up into your face. An unbeatable, inimitable feeling.

Jerry/Gaper
An unexperienced, novice skier who’s generally oblivious to the codes of the mountain. Named for the unmistakable gap between the brim of the helmet and the top of the goggles.

—Carson Sprague

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Powder Fever

By Carson Sprague

Diving into the Bozone’s most popular winter activity.

If you asked 100 Bozemanites what their favorite winter activity is, the lion’s share would say skiing—downhill skiing, that is. Bozeman is a skier’s dream through & through, and with two world-class ski resorts within an hour from downtown, along with an abundance of backcountry terrain in every direction, it’s easy to see why. Regardless of whether you’re a soon-to-be shredder or already an alpine aficionado simply looking for some beta, you’ve come to the right place. So let’s dig into everything you need to know about skiing and riding in southwest Montana.

Bozeman is a skier’s dream through & through, and with two world-class ski resorts within an hour from downtown, along with an abundance of backcountry terrain in every direction, it’s easy to see why.

Where to Go
With winter already knocking on our doors, it’s easy to feel the first signs of powder fever setting in. You may begin pacing around your room, drooling over ski maps, and feverously watching ski & snowboard movies to quench your thirst. But there’s only one thing that can scratch that itch, and that’s rippin’ down the face of a snow-covered mountain. Thankfully, there are plenty of viable options.

Situated only 17 miles from downtown Bozeman on the east side of the Bridger Range is Bridger Bowl—the long time favorite for generations of southwest Montana skiers and boarders. Besides the obvious convenience (can’t beat a 25-minute drive to the mountain), Bridger’s claim to fame comes from its incredibly diverse terrain. There’s something for everyone: easy, beginner runs with moderate slopes; long, cruisy intermediate sections; steep moguls, gullies, trees, and traverses for more advanced skiers; and the ultimate side-country experience of all: The Ridge—the top quarter of the mountain accessible only by poppin’ off your skis and hiking up. Yup, it’s got it all.

But there’s much more for skiers here to enjoy besides Bridger. Big Sky—located roughly 50 miles south of Bozeman—is home to some of the greatest terrain in the country (and the record for most-skiable acres at one resort). Here you’ll find long runs, fast chairlifts, and one of the best terrain parks in the nation. But it all comes at a cost, and their prices are even steeper than the routes off the famed Lone Peak (a lift ticket will run you upwards of $250 a day).

Beyond Gallatin Valley, there are plenty of other ski areas worthy of note. Check out Discovery outside of Anaconda, Red Lodge Mountain southwest of Billings, Maverick Mountain near Dillon, and Showdown up by White Sulphur Springs. Out of state options like Jackson Hole and Grand Targhee can also make for a great weekend getaway, with both being roughly four hours away.

Backcountry
While chairlifts do have their perks, nothing beats getting fresh tracks away from the powder-hungry masses. If you’re looking for solitude—and a way to get your heart pumping—backcountry skiing is a great option. But remember that the risks of the backcountry can rival the reward. Always go with an experienced partner, and don’t be afraid to turn back if the conditions look menacing. For information on the conditions and weather, check out the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center’s (GNFAC) website.

Early in the season, ski areas like Bridger Bowl are great for honing your skills and getting your legs under you—just make sure to get out there before they start spinning chairs. You’ll need some extra gear—and possibly another set of skis—but we’ll get to that later. For information on local tours, check out the trails page.

Essential Gear
Unfortunately, skiing ain’t cheap, and if you want to partake in Bozeman’s favorite winter pastime, you’re going to have to cough up some dough. But that doesn’t mean you need to drain your savings account to hit the slopes. In early November each year, the Bridger Ski Foundation (BSF) hosts the Ski Swap—a community market for buying and selling used winter gear. There, you’ll find everything you could possibly need at a fair price, and 30% of every sale benefits BSF.

Skiing ain’t cheap, and if you want to partake in Bozeman’s favorite winter pastime, you’re going to have to cough up some dough.

It’s best to start building your set-up from the bottom up. First find a good, comfortable pair of boots. Boots are not only the most important piece of equipment in a skier’s arsenal, they’re also the most overlooked. During my time as a ski instructor, I encountered countless beginners with brand new skis and crappy, hand-me-down boots—needless to say, most of ‘em didn’t stick with it. There’s no substitute for comfort, and no two feet are the same. Don’t just buy something online because your buddy said to. Always try on a pair of boots before you buy ‘em, and be sure the fit is snug but not cramped.

Now it’s time to find a pair of skis. Beginners should start something in the 90-105mm underfoot range that reaches between the tip and bridge of your nose. When buying used skis, inspect the bases and edges for signs of excess wear and damage, but don’t fret over a couple dings or scrapes—those can easily be repaired by a ski shop. Most used skis will come with bindings, but if not, speak with a salesperson at a local ski shop and follow his or her recommendation. Once you’ve secured these big-ticket items, you can start looking for the cheaper, lower-priority gear like poles, goggles, and a helmet.

If you’re hoping to get into the backcountry, look for a pair of boots with “walk mode,” as they will make your tours significantly more enjoyable. You’ll also need a pair of lightweight AT bindings, or at the very least some frame bindings. Finally, you’ll need a pair of skins. Be sure to buy skins that are as wide as the widest point of your skis—not just your underfoot.

Backcountry skiers also need specific avalanche safety & rescue gear—beacon, shovel, probe, and backpack. If you don’t know how to operate your gear, consider taking an avalanche safety course through GNFAC (mtavalanche.com).

Etiquette
Unless you want to become persona non grata on the slopes, there are some things you ought to keep in mind. While some rules are meant to be broken, others—like those featured here—are there for a reason. First, it’s important to remember the mountain doesn’t belong to you, and everyone is up there to have a good time. Be courteous and thoughtful of others and practice the Golden Rule. On busy days with long lift lines, don’t be afraid to share a chair with strangers. Don’t ski in roped-off areas, and don’t be reckless in a way that endangers others. Always look where you’re going. Just because you’re okay with taking a high speed crash doesn’t mean that the grandma you barrelled into was.

Always look where you’re going. Just because you’re okay with taking a high speed crash doesn’t mean that the grandma you barrelled into was.

In the backcountry, remember that the skin track is sacred—don’t muck it up with boot tracks, and certainly don’t relieve yourself (or worse, let your dog relieve himself) in it. Respect the abilities of everyone in your group, and don’t take folks into terrain they can’t handle. Finally, take your speaker out of your damn backpack and buy a pair of earbuds—just because you think you have good taste in music, doesn’t mean everyone else wants to hear it.

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Snow Limits

by Carson Sprague

Discovering new ways to get after it in winter.

Winter in southwest Montana is a wonderful time of year, and there’s no limit to the ways you can spend it. While more fashionable cold-weather pursuits have made Bozeman a mecca for winter recreators, there’s more to do than just skiing or ice-climbing. So, if you’re looking for a way to enjoy the splendors of winter sans skis or ice axes—or are simply seeking to break up the monotony—look no further.

While more fashionable cold-weather pursuits have made Bozeman a mecca for winter recreators, there’s more to do than just skiing or ice-climbing.

Snowmobiling
The thrill of opening the throttle on an 850cc snowmobile and tearing up a field of fresh powder is hard to beat, and there’re plenty of places to ride across Montana—the Bridger Range, Paradise Valley, Cooke City, Big Sky, and West Yellowstone, to name a few. Plus, there’s no shortage of ways to utilize a snowmobile, or “sled,” such as accessing hard-to-reach backcountry terrain, cruising snowed-in trails and access roads, or simply going out for a rip. Sleds aren’t cheap, but thankfully there are plenty of guide services and rental shops around Gallatin Valley that can hook you up with a ride, helmet, and ski suit.

Ice Skating
There are few activities that lend themselves to romanticism, artistry, and brutality like ice skating does—and all you need to go is a pair of skates and a bit of humility. Bozeman maintains several outdoor community rinks come mid-December—Bogert, Southside, and Beall—all of which are free to the public. Several elementary schools in the area put up rinks as well, although they’re only open to the public after school’s out. Looking for professionally maintained ice? Head on over to Haynes Pavillion. Entry is only $10, and another $5 if you need rentals. Once you’ve got your legs under you, you can take things up a notch with a race around the rink or a friendly game of stick-and-puck hockey.

Ice Fishing
Though not exceptionally popular in the West—and sometimes looked down on by more serious (read: pompous) anglers—ice fishing is a great way to spend a day during the winter. All you need is an ice auger, a rod, a chair, some warm clothes, and a beverage of your choosing. Waterbodies such as Hyalite Reservoir, Canyon Ferry, Glen Canyon Pond, or the Bozeman Pond are all great options, but always check that the ice is at least four inches thick, lest you find yourself taking an unexpected (and potentially fatal) polar plunge.

Snowshoeing
Hiking in the wintertime can be great—no mosquitoes, no bears, no people—but post-holing through deep snow is an exhausting and miserable experience. Avoid the hassle by finding yourself a pair of snowshoes. While they’re relatively inexpensive (a beginner set up is typically about $200), you can also rent a pair through MSU’s Outdoor Recreation Program or at various outdoor shops. Once you’ve gotten your hands on shoes (and poles—they help a ton), all you’ve got to do is bundle up and take to the hills. Snowshoes work best in deep snow, so don’t be afraid to get off the beaten path and blaze your own trail.

Sledding
It doesn’t get better, or more nostalgic, than barreling down a snow-covered hill on a piece of plastic with the expectation—nay, intention—of crashing. The beauty of sledding lies both in its simplicity and accessibility, as it requires no skill, no fancy gear, and no level of physical aptitude beyond walking uphill. Anywhere with a suitable incline will do, and there’s plenty of fun to be had in-town at Peets Hill, the Snowfill Recreation Area, the Regional Park, and Langohr Campground up in Hyalite.

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Save the Date

by Leah Veress

Keeping up to date and in the know.

Nothing’s worse than missing a you-had-to-be-there event. Lucky for you, we’ve got your back. Whether you’re a ski bum, bike freak, river rat, or someone who dips her toes in a little bit of everything, here’s a list of local happenings you won’t want to miss.

King & Queen of the Ridge – February
Looking to put your endurance to the test, ski some laps, and support the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center? Rock till your legs give out at this annual fundraiser and reap the rewards of good company, prizes, and quads of steel. bridgerbowl.com


Run to the Pub – March
Kickstart your St. Patty’s Day with one of the best races in the country. Whether you choose to run the 10k or the half-marathon, there’ll be a fresh Guinness will be waiting for you at the finish line and the chance to win an all-expenses-paid trip to Dublin—need we say more? runtothepub.com

Dirt Bag Ball – March
Show your love for the slopes and the crew that keeps them safe at the Dirt Bag Ball—considered by some to be the best party of the year. All proceeds from the silent auction go directly to Brider Bowl Ski Patrol. Party on! bridgerbowl.com

406 Denim Day – April
Open your closet, get all gussied-up in your finest Canadian tuxedo, and hit the slopes on 4-06 for Bridger Bowl’s annual Denim Day. After all, there’s nothing that unites a state like one shared area code and sweet, sweet indigo cotton. bridgerbowl.com

Gallatin Whitewater Festival – June
West Virgina can keep the Gauley, ’cause we’ve got the Gally. Spectate or participate in this one-day event, chock-full of whitewater races including slalom, downriver racing, and BoaterX—all while supporting the Wave Train Kayak Team. gallatinwhitewaterfestival.com

Livingston Round Up – July
Nothing screams Independence Day louder than an arena full of cowboys, rodeo fans, bucking bulls, and fireworks. Come celebrate the Fourth of July Montana-style while enjoying the thrill that only Montana’s oldest rodeo can provide. livingstonroundup.com


Music on Main – July-August
Over a quarter century after its genesis, Music on Main is going strong. With live tunes, food trucks, open-container waivers for local bars, and free admission, showing up is a no-brainer. Head to downtown on Thursday evenings and get in on the fun. downtownbozeman.com

Bridger Raptor Festival – October
Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher or rarely give avians a second thought, you’ll surely learn something during the Bridger Raptor Festival—complete with an opening ceremony, film screenings in town, and educational presentations & exhibits hosted at Bridger Bowl to boot. bridgerraptorfest.com

Ski Swap – November
Out with the old, in with the new(ish). As the Bridger Ski Foundation’s biggest annual fundraiser, the Ski Swap is a great place to sell your old gear and find deals on equipment, apparel, and more—just be sure to get there early. bridgerskifoundation.org

Bozeman Ice Fest – December
Come support Bozeman’s ice-climbing community and the Montana Mountaineering Association at one of the town’s longest-running outdoor celebrations. With educational clinics and live entertainment, there’s sure to be something for everyone at this week-long event. bozemanicefest.com

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Ice, Ice Baby

The guide to an ice-climber’s paradise.

by Jack Taylor

Bozeman has some of the best ice climbing in the Lower 48, from easy top-rope crags in Hyalite to grueling alpine routes in the Beartooths. Many folks arrive in this town having never even considered ascending a frozen waterfall using sharp metal spikes, only to find themselves fully hooked on the sport just a few years later. Once considered the realm of extreme alpinists, ice climbing is now an avocation for the masses. Clinics are offered all winter by various guide services, so you can safely learn the ropes. And in case you haven’t already heard about it, the annual Bozeman Ice Festival is not to be missed.

Where to Go
Beginner
Though Hyalite has a good selection of easy climbs, as a starting place, one crag is more popular than all the rest: G1 (formally Genesis I). It’s the closest cliff to the Grotto Falls parking area—just a 15-minute walk up the hill—and you can easily set up a top-rope by scrambling around to the right. Once you’ve mastered the movement here, check out nearby Lower Greensleeves, Fat Chance, and Mummy I.

Intermediate
A logical progression, the next step up is G2, about twice as far up the hill as G1. It’s longer, more difficult, and more exposed, but you can still hike around (left, this time) to set up a top-rope if you’re not yet ready for lead-climbing. Other excellent intermediate climbs in Hyalite include Hangover, The Fat One, Mummy II, and Twin Falls.

Advanced
Hyalite has hundreds of ice and mixed climbs, and if you’re looking for a comprehensive guide, check out Joe Josephson’s guidebook The House of Hyalite. The Unnamed Wall has dozens of moderate to difficult single-pitch routes. Dribbles, considered by many as the best climb in Hyalite, tackles three long pitches of pure ice. Cleopatra’s Needle is a breathtaking, difficult line near Twin Falls that’s sure to draw a crowd.

Outside of Hyalite, notable climbs include Hydromonster near Cooke City, California Iceup East Rosebud Creek, and the Lowe Route on the Sphinx—a popular early-season route with a burly approach that becomes dangerous once the snowpack builds up.

iceclimbing-teddybanker3_lr
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Dress the Part
It can be awfully cold scaling a frozen waterfall, and proper layering is essential. Start at skin-level: thick wool socks to prevent cold feet and bruised toes, and synthetic or wool long underwear on the top and bottom. Next, don a fleece sweater that you’ll be comfortable in all day, and perhaps fleece pants if it’s cold out. At this point, start piling on upper layers (too many lower layers will restrict movement in your legs). A synthetic insulated jacket will keep you toasty. Throw on a waterproof shell and rain pants to keep dripping water on the outside—even if it’s below freezing, ice climbs can still be wet. Carry two or three pairs of gloves, at least one of them waterproof, and a hat or balaclava that fits under your helmet. For really cold days, bring a big down parka, but be sure to only wear it when you’re belaying. If you wear it on a climb, it’s sure to get wet from sweat or dribbles, which will render those down feathers cold, heavy, and possibly damaged.

Make sure to bring enough food and water—your body burns a lot of calories when it’s cold. Some nice extra touches include a thermos of hot soup, tea, or cocoa; a package of handwarmers; and perhaps a nip of whiskey if you’re feeling frisky. Most importantly, take safety seriously: carrying a satellite-communication device is always a good idea, and if you’re going into avalanche terrain, carry a beacon, shovel, and probe. Always let somebody know where you’re going, and when you expect to be back.

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Road Code

by Eli Fournier

Unlike other customs and etiquette around Montana, driving dirt roads is somewhat subjective and situationally-dependent. There are times when it’s okay to rally a dirt road like a redneck racecar driver, and times when it isn’t. Use the following as a guide to assess the situation and determine the proper dirt-road behavior.

Waving
Acceptable: Practice a one- or two-finger wave, and flash it over the steering wheel at other drivers who are also observing proper dirt-road etiquette.

Unacceptable: Not waving back at another driver, or flipping someone off for some minor infraction. Like the rest, use your judgement—appropriate etiquette can change depending on the situation.

Speed
Acceptable: What the hell else are dirt roads for? Letting ‘er rip on a straightaway comes naturally, so long as there’s a clear line of sight and no houses on either side.

Unacceptable: Forcing other cars off the road, cutting blind corners, and in general being oblivious or indifferent to the effect on others.

Mud
Acceptable: It’s pretty damn fun to slide around a bit on muddy roads—especially at the end of a spring or fall day when things have melted out and it’s a necessary evil to getting home.

Unacceptable: Intentionally ripping up wet, muddy roads, gouging out tracks and leaving ruts just for the sport of it.

Dust
Acceptable: If it’s hot and dry, you’re gonna dust people—no two ways about it. But use discretion and slow down, especially when passing houses, pedestrians, and bikers.

Unacceptable: Flying past bikers or hikers, leaving them blinded and choking on mouthfuls of tangy dust.

Hunting
Acceptable: Scouting for game from the road is a great, effective tactic, but don’t stop in the middle of the road to glass. Pull off to the side so other vehicles can get past.

Unacceptable: Shooting animals from the car or on the road. Step completely out of the road easement (generally, 30 feet from the centerline) before even thinking about loading the gun.

Roadies
Acceptable: Cracking a cold one when you turn off the highway or are heading home from hunting camp. Keep ’er in check, in control, and out of the ditch.

Unacceptable: Slamming a six-pack, tossing the cans out the window, and endangering other road users.

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Winter’s Delight

by Corey Hockett

Some of the greatest moments of winter outings come as anticipation before and ravishment after. Indeed, fueling up and winding down is a big part of what makes these excursions so attractive. What beats raising a glass with your buddies at the end of an epic powder day? How good does that first sip of coffee taste before a weekend road trip? These periods of transition provide your getaway with wholesomeness. And in Bozeman, where there is no lack of adventures to choose from, après (and avant) is no different.

Fueling Up
In winter, it’s hard to leave the coziness of the comforter and strike out into the cold. Get started with hot drinks and warm sandwiches from one of our standout coffee shops and delis. If you’re headed up Bridger Canyon to the ski hill, Crosscut, or Brackett Creek, hit Ghost Town for smooth-sipping coffee and a hefty breakfast burrito. If you’re eastbound on the interstate toward Paradise Valley, pick up a warm cup o’ tea at Townshend’s. Going west, you say? Fill up at Wheat Montana at the junction of Hwy. 287 and score a serious bang for your buck with a Belt burritos. The classic rendezvous locale south of town is Slider’s Deli at the mouth of Big Sky. Grab a coffee on your way through, or, if you’re ending the day early, stop in for a sandwich or burger before your trip home. Last but certainly not least: if you’re planning a half-day at Bridger, pick up a giant Pickle Barrel sandwich and chow down on your way to the hill.

Winding Down
Ski hills are the quintessential locales for après. If you’re wrapping up a day at Bridger Bowl, you’ve got options. It’s always worth having one (just one, if you’re driving) on the hill, and for this I recommend the Grizzly Ridge Station (aka, the Griz). We’re talkin’ $3 pints here. Of Olympia, that is; but let’s face it, you’re looking for something light anyway. Face Shots in the Jim Bridger Lodge is also tried and true. Got a designated driver with you? Have one at each.

If Big Sky is your choice of exploit, you have plenty of choices as well—just be prepared to loosen the purse strings. Scissor Bills is a local favorite. Amongst the mass of infrastructure, this homey saloon overlooks the base area and has plenty of room to spread out. Have a round by the window where an upper-level perspective grants great views of the base area.

Beers are fine and dandy, but if you’re itching for something with a little more zip—something that burns the throat and warms the belly—Bozeman has an exceptional spread of distilleries. Check out Wildrye in the Cannery District and Bozeman Spirits downtown. On the way back from Bridger, stop into Valhalla Meadery for a unique, historic libation to warm your frozen insides. If you happen to be passing through Ennis, don’t miss Willie’s on the main drag—their Bighorn Bourbon rivals any whiskey in the West.

Speaking of small-town spots, some of the most pleasant après experiences are away from the Bozeman bustle—wood-door saloons, old-time taxidermy bars, and venues with no dress code whatsoever. On your next trip to Yellowstone, stop in at the Antler Pub & Grill for a western Montana meal at its finest. Heading north? Hit Canyon Ferry Brewing in Townsend after ice fishing the reservoir. In Ennis, you’ll find great beer and delicious food at Burnt Tree Brewing, across the street from Willie’s.

These are just a few of our favorite places—there are plenty more. But don’t take our word for it, get out and try for yourself. The more places you try, the better notion you’ll have of all the options to suit your winter’s day. Bozeman is a mountain town, and its après reflects that. Experience it wearing your ski pants, laughing with friends, and repping a goggle tan—the rest of us will be out there doing the same.